frount motor mount

[treed2 at u.washington.edu (T. Reed)]

Yep, and I'll add - the first thing I would do to prevent cracking is go
under your car right now and unbolt the front and rear motor mounts,
leaving the engine supported only by the side mounts. Then tighten the
front and rear mounts again. This is sort of a half-assed shadetree engine
mount alignment.. but the idea is to take the weight of the engine off of
the front and rear mounts because weight on those two mounts is believed
to be a contributing factor in the development of cracks. The front and
rear mounts are designed to prevent engine rotation only.

Why would they be supporting engine weight? Well, chances are you're not
on your first clutch and whoever owned the car before you may have taken
it to a shop for work (such as a clutch) where they monkeyed around with
the engine mounts. Most shops are pretty incompetent, so there's a chance
your mounts are set up wrong.

Given the price and hassle involved in fixing crossmember cracks,
prevention is definitely the best option.

-Toby

On Mon, 19 May 2003, Daun Yeagley wrote:

>
> --- ATS - Patrick Bureau <txrocco@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> not all 16v had a lower radiator/cross member
> > cracks...
> > the few that have the problem, have made Ehmm
> > improvements, 1.8T,
> > G60-16v-Turbo type deal with over 300HP..
>
> Not true.  There have been other reports of 2.0 16v and
> even stock 1.8 16v cars with cracking front cross-members.
>
>
> =====
> Daun Yeagley - Wilmington Ohio
> '80 S, 81 S, '85, '86 & '88 Sciroccos, 90 Passat Wagon, '56 Cessna 172
> For Sale: '66 Cessna 150, '81 Scirocco, '82 Scirocco, '85 Scirocco.
> "I'm not always right, but I'm never wrong."
>
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