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Rear Disc E-brake I have made a discovery!!!!!!
- Subject: Rear Disc E-brake I have made a discovery!!!!!!
- From: brian_wagner at sbcglobal.net (Brian Wagner)
- Date: Mon May 19 13:30:30 2003
- In-reply-to: <007101c31e41$c7c35280$5fe0a818@main>
Adjusting the rear on a 16v is easy and shouldn't take anytime to adjust. Step 1 - Change Pads and rotorsStep 2 - Depress the brake pedalStep 3 - Pull the ebrake up slowly while the pedal is depressed, you will feel the pedal fall a little.Step 4 - repeat step 3 5 times and then test ebrake. I is simple and works, well at least it did on mine.
Allyn <amalventano@sc.rr.com> wrote:> I have a theory that I would like to get some discussion on ....
mmm, theory...
> E-brakes...
> anyone have any input on this?
the pistons are designed to auto-rotate clockwise, which will
auto-compensate for brake pad wear by picking up the slack in the e-brake
mechanism. this takes several brake cycles to accomplish, even for the
smallest auto-adjustment. if you go from new pads/new rotor to used
pads/used rotor, it will take a LONG TIME for the system to fix this on its
own (unless you turn the piston ccw during the swap). it can also take a
while for the ebrake to work after swapping to new stuff, if the piston was
screwed all the way in (possibly against its stop, causing the self-adjust
to not work at all, as its basically been 'tightened' and cant turn ccw on
its own).
data point: i did rear brakes/rotors last month on the rieger. it took 2
days of daily driving for the ebrake to work again. it did work after the
initial test drive, but it was very weak (lever all the way up).
hth
Al
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