Coil connections....where do they go?

[bronson@inwave.com (Nate Mellom)]

All,
I wrote a few days ago about my '81 not starting (no spark, screwy 
voltage at the coil).  I went to try and get it started today, and she 
fired right up on the first try.  Closed the hood, and it shut down. 
 Started right back up, but when I closed the hatch, it shut off.  So, 
I'm thinking loose or worn wire.  What I wrote previously:

Rocers,
On Monday, I went to leave work, when I started my car it started kind 
of funny (erratic stumbly idle, but it smoothed out after a few 
seconds).  I took off to leave and it died on me, instantly.  Tach 
dropped to zero, no run-on.  Got it started again, where it promptly 
died.  I jumped my fuel pump relay contacts, thinking my relay was shot, 
it started, I made it half a block away, and it died again.  The last 
time I had this kind of problem, it turned out to be a bad distributor. 
 I installed a new (used) one, and it's been fine ever since.  So, 
symptoms:  Instant death, instant tach drop.  No fuel pump.  No spark. 
 Distributor cap contacts are all nasty, I sanded them down but never 
got to metal.  Rotor has seen better days.
I did some tests, and I came up with the following:
1) Battery voltage: 12.4v
2) Pulled all 5 wires (2 grounds, 2 positives and the high tension wire) 
off the coil, and got 12.34v at the hot lead to the coil.
3) Put the hot lead only on the coil, and tested at 12.29v at the coil.
4) Hooked up the hot lead and the other positive wire (I'm assuming the 
second hot connection runs the fuel pump relay and tach) and got 3.47v 
at the coil.
5) Hooked up all 5 wires, and I got 3.33v at the coil.
I did some tests on the signal wire:
5) No continuity, but...
6) 121.5k ohms resistance.
7) Hooked up my tester with positive being the battery and the signal 
wire as ground, and I got 11.94v, key on or off.
8) Hooked up my tester with negative being the battery and the signal 
wire as hot, and got nothing.
I checked resistance at the coil, no wires attached and got the following:
9) From hot to ground, I got .8 ohms.  Bentley said it should be .52 - .76.
10) From the high tension to hot, I got 6000 ohms.  Bentley....2400 - 3500.

My concern was #'s 4 and 5.  Why I would only get appx. 3-3.5v at the 
coil when the signal wire is hooked up led me to believe that I had a 
short or loose wire somewhere in that circuit.  I know it runs the tach 
and fuel pump, and about 3 months agoI installed a new fuse block.  When 
I was messing with it last week, the last thing I did before I went home 
was pull my fuse block and checked for bad wire.  I didn't try to start 
it again.  Fast forward to today, my first encounter with it since then. 
 Fired up right away, closed the hood, shut down.  Same with the hatch. 
 So, I'm thinking I have a crimped or bare wire behind my fuseblock, 
jumping to ground whenever it gets jostled.  Sound fair?
So, when I pull my fuseblock again, what wire should I be looking for? 
 Does it go to the pump relay first, or the tach, or somewhere else? 
 Wire tracing advise would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Nate
'81
'84