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rust rears its ugly head...when does it become a lost cause? (long)
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I'm not a very experienced body man by any means and I don't know if this will work for you, but it was a good solution for me that Cheapass Ron would be proud of. The hole was in the rear wheel well an and rusted through the trunk. There was also a hole in the lower front side of the wheel well, which soaked my seatbelt. I sanded the whole area down with one of those rough steel wool type pads that you find at any autozone. You attatch them to a drill and go nuts. Once that was done, I sprayed the whole area with that rust converter stuff. When it dried, I cut aluminum flashing to fit the whole wheel well area. I pop rivited it into place, then bondo'd the edges smooth. After that, I sprayed the whole area with rubber undercoating about a million times. When I had my snows put on, the people at the tire shop couldn't tell until after I pointed it out. Also, it held up without a problem from NY to CO and then in CO where volcanic rock is used on the roads. I was very pleased with it. A lot easier and quicker than welding and, though not as permanent, pretty effective.
Dan
brett cooke <vwscir88@hotmail.com> wrote:that sucks! i hate rust. everything does look fixable though. i guess the
real dilemma is do you really want to put that kinda time and money into the
car? i think only you can really answer that, but i know if it were me
personally i'd consider giving it a go. i like to get in over my head :D i
hope whichever way you choose to go works out well for you.
hit
So Sayeth The Hitman
'88 "stripe" 16v scirocco
>From: Jeff Toomasson
>To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: rust rears its ugly head...when does it become a lost cause?
>(long)
>Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 17:12:49 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>I had suspected that there may be some deeper rust issues because I found
>that the strut towers showed some beginning signs of separation.
>
>Well, I finally got around to getting under the carpet and under the noise
>padding and found more crud. Photos can be seen at:
>
>http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jtoomasson/lst?.dir=/My+Photos&.view=t
>
>The only two points where there are actual holes is near front of the
>passenger side floor pan and towards the front of the rear passenger side
>pan. Both holes are no bigger than a dime and the surrounding metal feels
>intact for the most part.
>
>But I started doing some more digging. I stripped off a little of the bondo
>near the fender flares to see how easy it would be remove in case I had to
>remove the fender to fix the shock tower situation. That's when I found the
>PO had gone nuts with the rivets...
>
>When I start adding all this up, I get nervous. I do not have problem
>welding two, three, four, five patches in to fix all this stuff, I do not
>have a problem grinding out all the rust from the pan, I do not have a
>problem welding the shock towers if I could be assured they'd come out good
>as new or better...but patching 50+ rivets holes with no guarantee there
>isn't already rust behind them?? I want to have mk1 that's going to be
>CLEAN - I don't want to spend 5000 hours and $5000 only to have it fall
>apart in a couple of years...
>
>At what point do I call the coroner? Did I make a poor choice? I mean, I
>got the thing for $200 primarily because it had an original ragtop which I
>could remove if it came down to it. I could easily get that money back from
>parts...I keep hearing that Cali rocs have little-to-no rust. Should I
>start again?
>
>Thanks for letting me rant. Jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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<P>I'm not a very experienced body man by any means and I don't know if this will work for you, but it was a good solution for me that Cheapass Ron would be proud of.<IMG src="http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys/3.gif";> The hole was in the rear wheel well an and rusted through the trunk. There was also a hole in the lower front side of the wheel well, which soaked my seatbelt. I sanded the whole area down with one of those rough steel wool type pads that you find at any autozone. You attatch them to a drill and go nuts. Once that was done, I sprayed the whole area with that rust converter stuff. When it dried, I cut aluminum flashing to fit the whole wheel well area. I pop rivited it into place, then bondo'd the edges smooth. After that, I sprayed the whole area with rubber undercoating about a million times. When I had my snows put on, the people at the tire shop couldn't tell until after I pointed it out. Also, it held up without a problem from NY to CO and then in CO where volcanic rock is used on the roads. I was very pleased with it. A lot easier and quicker than welding and, though not as permanent, pretty effective.
<P>Dan
<P> <B><I>brett cooke <vwscir88@hotmail.com></I></B> wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">that sucks! i hate rust. everything does look fixable though. i guess the <BR>real dilemma is do you really want to put that kinda time and money into the <BR>car? i think only you can really answer that, but i know if it were me <BR>personally i'd consider giving it a go. i like to get in over my head :D i <BR>hope whichever way you choose to go works out well for you.<BR>hit<BR><BR><BR><BR>So Sayeth The Hitman<BR>'88 "stripe" 16v scirocco<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>>From: Jeff Toomasson <JTOOMASSON@YAHOO.COM><BR>>To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org<BR>>Subject: rust rears its ugly head...when does it become a lost cause? <BR>>(long)<BR>>Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 17:12:49 -0800 (PST)<BR>><BR>><BR>>I had suspected that there may be some deeper rust issues because I found <BR>>that the strut towers showed some beginning signs of separation.<BR>><BR>>Well, I finally got around to getting under the carpet and under the noise <BR>>padding and found more crud. Photos can be seen at:<BR>><BR>>http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jtoomasson/lst?.dir=/My+Photos&.view=t<BR>><BR>>The only two points where there are actual holes is near front of the <BR>>passenger side floor pan and towards the front of the rear passenger side <BR>>pan. Both holes are no bigger than a dime and the surrounding metal feels <BR>>intact for the most part.<BR>><BR>>But I started doing some more digging. I stripped off a little of the bondo <BR>>near the fender flares to see how easy it would be remove in case I had to <BR>>remove the fender to fix the shock tower situation. That's when I found the <BR>>PO had gone nuts with the rivets...<BR>><BR>>When I start adding all this up, I get nervous. I do not have problem <BR>>welding two, three, four, five patches in to fix all this stuff, I do not <BR>>have a problem grinding out all the rust from the pan, I do not have a <BR>>problem welding the shock towers if I could be assured they'd come out good <BR>>as new or better...but patching 50+ rivets holes with no guarantee there <BR>>isn't already rust behind them?? I want to have mk1 that's going to be <BR>>CLEAN - I don't want to spend 5000 hours and $5000 only to have it fall <BR>>apart in a couple of years...<BR>><BR>>At what point do I call the coroner? Did I make a poor choice? I mean, I <BR>>got the thing for $200 primarily because it had an original ragtop which I <BR>>could remove if it came down to it. I could easily get that money back from <BR>>parts...I keep hearing that Cali rocs have little-to-no rust. Should I <BR>>start again?<BR>><BR>>Thanks for letting me rant. Jeff<BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>>---------------------------------<BR>>Do you Yahoo!?<BR>>Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more<BR><BR><BR>_________________________________________________________________<BR>MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. <BR>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus<BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Scirocco-l mailing list<BR>Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<BR>http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l</BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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