16v 2.0l engine, N/A stats??

[vince@performancecarstereo.com (Vince Royer)]

>Scott may be on to something here. How much time do you spend at full
>throttle? As soon as you let up at all it will start charging again. If the
>alternator (high amps) is in good condition I don't see any problem with
>this set up. So Scott can I have a copy of the schematic that you are
>thinking about for this?

Although he may be on to something, there's some key points missing.

It's not the current that would be the issue.  I'm sure the battery has
plenty of current available to deliver the car what it needs.  What I'm
talking about is a voltage drop.  It would not 'fade away' as you might
think.  The alternator stops working, the voltage drops immediately, no
matter how good and healthy the alternator might be.  If you look at what
the coil does, it takes a 12 V high amperage circuit and turns it into
thousands of volts w/ hardly any current.  We must realize that the input
voltage -> output voltage is directly related.  2 Volts is a big chunk of
the total voltage input (14.4V).  I would imagine it would transfer into a
huge loss on the other side of the coil (hundreds of volts).

An obvious workaround would be a higher voltage battery.  A lot of drag cars
already have higher voltage batteries, for the very reason that they deliver
more voltage into the ignition system to produce a more powerful spark.

Otherwise maybe a capacitor of some sort might be able to hold the voltage
up for short bursts, or some other sort of voltage stabilizing device.

Going by the seat-of-the-pants difference it makes to simply upgrade the
factory ground cables, I'd say there's no way the extra horsepower would
outweigh the voltage loss.  I figure I gained at least 5 hp simply by
freeing the electrons.  Evidence?  I gained 1.5 Volts at the coil - that's
gotta make a difference.  I noticed a whole slew of advantages: more power,
smoother running, better starting, more revvy, brighter bulbs, better fuel
economy...etc.

Any electrical device will operate less powerfully when you lower the
voltage, unless it has its own regulated power supply.

Vince

-----Original Message-----
From: scirocco-l-admin@scirocco.org
[mailto:scirocco-l-admin@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Rick Alexander
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 10:49 AM
To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
Subject: Re: 16v 2.0l engine, N/A stats??


Vince,

Scott may be on to something here. How much time do you spend at full
throttle? As soon as you let up at all it will start charging again. If the
alternator (high amps) is in good condition I don't see any problem with
this set up. So Scott can I have a copy of the schematic that you are
thinking about for this?

Rick Alexander

----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Royer" <vince@performancecarstereo.com>
To: "Scott F. Williams" <sfwilliams@comcast.net>; "Kevin S"
<optimus234@hotmail.com>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2003 12:13 PM
Subject: RE: 16v 2.0l engine, N/A stats??


>
> > P.S. My latest mods are/will be an electrically-driven water pump,
> > electrically drive power steering pump, and a kill circuit that
> > switches the
> > alternator off at wide open throttle. This should free up *several* hp.
> > Yeehah!"
> >
> > --
>
>
> So when you jam the throttle, the alternator cuts out freeing 5-10 hp?
Then
> since there's no alternator the car's voltage drops from 14.4V to 12.2V.
> All those fancy new electrical pumps will run much nicer at 14V than at
12V,
> not to mention your ignition circuit.  Try taking your car for a rip
without
> the alternator plugged in.  It defenately will be slower due to less
voltage
> reaching the coil, transferring into less voltage out of the coil, less
> voltage to the sparkplug, less powerful spark!  Its a good idea put unless
> I'm missing something I would reconsider.
>
>
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