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help again, cis-e crap again
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my guess is bad o2 sensor or possibly bad temp sender. it appears =
your system is lowering dpr current to the point of (almost) killing the =
engine. the rate of speed change seems consistent with how the computer =
changes dpr current when entering idle mode.
when you checked your dpr current, it was at 0, i assume this was =
with the idle sitting at 500 rpm. dpr current at 0 mA is another likely =
indicator of bad o2 or bad temp sender.
check o2 sensor voltage at idle (green wire (+), ground (-)), voltage =
should be ~.5 VDC.
as far as the idle screw, yes, it will have a difference, but there =
should be a couple of turns where the idle 'sticks' at the correct =
value. going too high or too low takes the airflow out of the range that =
the ISV can compensate for, resulting in your idle changing.
hth
Al
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Tony Morehead=20
To: list=20
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2003 12:27 PM
Subject: help again, cis-e crap again
if i am driving down the road, and i push in the clutch (like to slow =
down) the rpms drop to about 1500 and wait for a second (if the car was =
at 3k or higher when i push the clutch it jumps up about 100 rpms then =
drops, and no it isnt because im still on the gas), then very slowly =
fall until about 500 rpms. this dropping takes about 15-20 seconds and =
the car tries to idle at 500 without coming back up. these observations =
are when the car is warm. i am almost certain that my fuel mixture is =
not right (last time i tried to check it the multimeter stayed at zero).
also, many people have said that the car is supposed to be able to =
adjust the idle and the mixture on its own when the engine is cold, but =
i dont think my car got that memo. turning the screw on the tb =
definately makes a difference, though i have been told that it should =
have no effect. i am starting to dislike working on my own car, but =
since i have no money to pay anyone else to fix it i might just park it =
and drive my mom's station wagon.
-tony
1987 2 or 3 tone 16v scirocco
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> my guess is bad o2 =
sensor or=20
possibly bad temp sender. it appears your system is lowering dpr current =
to the=20
point of (almost) killing the engine. the rate of speed change seems =
consistent=20
with how the computer changes dpr current when entering idle =
mode.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> when you checked =
your dpr=20
current, it was at 0, i assume this was with the idle sitting at 500 =
rpm. dpr=20
current at 0 mA is another likely indicator of bad o2 or bad temp=20
sender.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>check o2 sensor voltage at idle (green =
wire=20
(+), ground (-)), voltage should be ~.5 VDC.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> as far as the idle =
screw, yes,=20
it will have a difference, but there should be a couple of turns where =
the idle=20
'sticks' at the correct value. going too high or too low takes the =
airflow out=20
of the range that the ISV can compensate for, resulting in your idle=20
changing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>hth</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Al</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Dwolfsburg16v2k2@yahoo.com=20
href=3D"mailto:wolfsburg16v2k2@yahoo.com";>Tony Morehead</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dscirocco-l@scirocco.org=20
href=3D"mailto:scirocco-l@scirocco.org";>list</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 10, 2003 =
12:27=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> help again, cis-e crap =
again</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<P>if i am driving down the road, and i push in the clutch (like to =
slow down)=20
the rpms drop to about 1500 and wait for a second (if the car was at =
3k or=20
higher when i push the clutch it jumps up about 100 rpms then =
drops, and=20
no it isnt because im still on the gas), then very slowly fall until =
about 500=20
rpms. this dropping takes about 15-20 seconds and the car tries =
to idle=20
at 500 without coming back up. these observations are when the =
car is=20
warm. i am almost certain that my fuel mixture is not right =
(last time i=20
tried to check it the multimeter stayed at zero).</P>
<P>also, many people have said that the car is supposed to be able to =
adjust=20
the idle and the mixture on its own when the engine is cold, but i =
dont think=20
my car got that memo. turning the screw on the tb definately =
makes a=20
difference, though i have been told that it should have no =
effect. i am=20
starting to dislike working on my own car, but since i have no money =
to pay=20
anyone else to fix it i might just park it and drive my mom's station=20
wagon.</P>
<P>-tony</P><BR><BR>1987 2 or 3 tone 16v scirocco
<P><BR>
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