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Knock box wiring testing help



Alright, did some more stuff trying to figure out my erratic low power problem, here's what I came up with:
1.) Swapped coil with a known working unit
2.) Swapped distributor/cap/rotor/hall sender with known working units.  Distributor and cap is on correctly and tightly.
3.) Swapped ICM/knock box with several known working units
4.) New plugs/wires
5.) New knock sensor (and swapped in a used working one just to be sure)
6.) Timing dead on... crank to cam, cam to cam, and ignition
7.) Swapped fuel computers, new O2 sensor.
8.) Swapped temperature sensor.
Still broke.
I'm still suspecting a bad x-fer pump, as everything else has been changed...

Any more ideas?


> Okay, here is what I would check:
> 
> 1. cam <-> crank timing. it sounds stupid, but if your car is running
> crappy I'd really look in to it. I know from experience. Your car will
> still drive with as many as 2-3 teeth off on the timing belt. This will
> screw up your ignition timing, too, since the distributor is driven off
> the exhaust cam. My car was actually fast as shit when this happened, but
> only around redline :)
> 
> 2. the coil is definitely a possibility. I would take the cheap route and
> swap it with a known good from a local lister befwore buying a new one,
> though. Any CIS-E coil should work so an '88-ish Golf/Jetta 16v would have
> the necessary equipment if you can't find rocco peeps in your area.
> 
> 3. pull the distrbutor cap and make sure you have all bosch components.
> Check the distributor itself, the cap, and the rotor. you don't want any
> aftermarket crap.. if you have said crap, get a bosch replacement asap
> 
> 4. make sure you have the correct distributor cap for your distributor. As
> my brother will tell you an 8v cap will fit on a 16v distributor.. your
> car will just run shitty.
> 
> 5. make sure the distributor is installed in the correct pair of bolt
> holes. There are two sets and thus at least two ways it can be installed.
> The plug for the hall sender should be facing towards the radiator.
> 
> 6. check plug wire order. 1-3-4-2 COUNTER-clockwise, IIRC. the left hand
> side of the motor as you're standing in front of the engine bay looking
> towards the back of the car is where the #1 cylinder is. It counts up from
> there as you go right.
> 
> 7. make sure both metal finger-clamps are holding the distributor
> cap on when you re-install it.
> 
> 8. check that you have a good ground wire between the intake manifold and
> the coil, and a good ground between the chassis and the
> engine/transmission/starter, and a good ground from the battery to the
> chassis or motor.
> 
> 9. make sure your plug wires are in good shape. spray some water on them
> and listen for arcing or a change in the idle.
> 
> 10. try a different ICU. This is that little computer on a heatsink that
> has a 7 pin connector. Apparently these go bad once in a blue moon..
> 
> 11. pull back the boot of the connector for the hall sender and make sure
> that the wires aren't frayed or shorting or soaked with oil.
> 
> 12. check that you have no vacuum leaks and there is a good vacuum line
> hooked to the knock sensor computer (the one with the yellow cap on the
> side)
> 
> 13. try swapping your knock sensor computer with someone. i've seen
> several for sale for $25 in the past month in various places (eBay,
> vortex, here, etc)
> 
> 14. verify that your distributor isn't somehow 180 degrees off. find true
> tdc using the screwdriver or wooden dowel down #1 spark plug hole method,
> and verify your crank/cam sprockets are properly timed in the process, as
> well as your flywheel timing mark. Then pull off your dist cap and check
> that the rotor is pointing roughly at the cut/notch in the edge of the
> metal backing plate on the distributor.
> 
> 15. measure the resistances of your spark plug wires including the one
> from the coil to the distributor cap and check against bentley specs.
> 
> Try all that stuff, then come back to the list if your car still doesn't
> run right :)
> 
> HTH
> 
> -Toby
> 
> 
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