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curing my rod knock(a bit long)
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Robbie,
There is an awful lot going on here. It could be a lot of things. =
Changing the oil pump might not be a bad idea. What pressures are you =
running on idle and off idle? The way bearing clearances are measured is =
with a product called Plastigauge. You snip off a piece of this very =
precisely sized plastic and place it between the journal and the =
bearing. Torque the cap on and without moving anything take the cap off. =
The plastic will have been crushed. Measure the width of the crushed =
plastic and that will tell you volumes about your bearings. This can be =
done with the engine in the car and that is what I'd do first.
Rick Alexander
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Robbie Cotner=20
To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org=20
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 1:53 PM
Subject: curing my rod knock(a bit long)
Hey all, I could use some help here! I rebuilt a JH with 170k, it was =
strong when I rebuilt it, since I was doing a transplant I figured that =
was a good time to rebuild it. The crank was mic'd(sp?) within spec, =
and I used OEM size bearings. When assembling the engine, I got the #1 =
and #3 rods mixed up, which made the engine VERY hard to turn by torque =
bar. I'm 19, in a hurry, and immature, so I figured I'd "break the =
engine in" by hand and turned it 100 times in each direction(wasn't hard =
to keep moving once you got it moving). That didn't help, and =
eventually I figured out what was wrong but not before one of the rod =
bearings was a bit pre-broken in(very shiny compared to the others which =
were not shiny at all). Well I switched the rods back, which may have =
both fixed and caused a problem since I had to undo the stretch bolts =
(which were new, but in the case of #1 and #3 had been torqued once, =
removed and retorqued again). =20
I assembled the engine and it ran great over the summer, putting on =
about 6,000 miles(a lot of road tripping). Now that winter is here it =
knocks when it's below freezing(32F) for about a minute. However, if I =
start the engine and rev it to about 2-3k for a second, the knock goes =
away(if it's really cold it doesnt' though). The knock isn't loud, but =
it's there. =20
Also when rebuilding the engine I reused the original oil pump(with =
about 180k on it now). All I did was clean it, and put it back in. I =
did not notice any scoring in it. =20
So now the big question, could I blame this knock on the oil pump not =
getting oil to something or another quickly enough? Or is it too much =
rod/crank clearance? Could it be to much wrist pin/piston clearance? =
What should I do? If it is too much rod clearance, can I order a set of =
new bearings and rod bolts, take off the oil pan, and put em =
on(hopefully curing the problem)? The engine far as I know only knocks =
when cold, not when under load. A very big thanks to all who have read =
all of this, and an even bigger thanks to those who reply!
-Rob
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<DIV><STRONG>Robbie,</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>There is an awful lot going on here. It could be a lot of =
things.=20
Changing the oil pump might not be a bad idea. What pressures are you =
running on=20
idle and off idle? The way bearing clearances are measured is with a =
product=20
called Plastigauge. You snip off a piece of this very precisely sized =
plastic=20
and place it between the journal and the bearing. Torque the cap on and =
without=20
moving anything take the cap off. The plastic will have been crushed. =
Measure=20
the width of the crushed plastic and that will tell you volumes about =
your=20
bearings. This can be done with the engine in the car and that is what =
I'd do=20
first.</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>Rick Alexander</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Drobw_z@yahoo.com href=3D"mailto:robw_z@yahoo.com";>Robbie =
Cotner</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dscirocco-l@scirocco.org=20
href=3D"mailto:scirocco-l@scirocco.org";>scirocco-l@scirocco.org</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, February 02, 2003 =
1:53=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> curing my rod knock(a =
bit=20
long)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<P>Hey all, I could use some help here! I rebuilt a JH with =
170k, it was=20
strong when I rebuilt it, since I was doing a transplant I figured =
that was a=20
good time to rebuild it. The crank was mic'd(sp?) within spec, =
and I=20
used OEM size bearings. When assembling the engine, I got the #1 =
and #3=20
rods mixed up, which made the engine VERY hard to turn by torque=20
bar. I'm 19, in a hurry, and immature, so I figured I'd "break =
the=20
engine in" by hand and turned it 100 times in each direction(wasn't =
hard to=20
keep moving once you got it moving). That didn't help, and=20
eventually I figured out what was wrong but not before one of the rod =
bearings=20
was a bit pre-broken in(very shiny compared to the others which were =
not shiny=20
at all). Well I switched the rods back, which may have both =
fixed and=20
caused a problem since I had to undo the stretch bolts (which were =
new, but in=20
the case of #1 and #3 had been torqued once, removed and retorqued=20
again). </P>
<P>I assembled the engine and it ran great over the summer, putting on =
about 6,000 miles(a lot of road tripping). Now that winter =
is=20
here it knocks when it's below freezing(32F) for about =
a=20
minute. However, if I start the engine and rev it to about 2-3k =
for a=20
second, the knock goes away(if it's really cold it doesnt' =
though). The=20
knock isn't loud, but it's there. </P>
<P>Also when rebuilding the engine I reused the original oil pump(with =
about=20
180k on it now). All I did was clean it, and put it back =
in. I did=20
not notice any scoring in it. </P>
<P>So now the big question, could I blame this knock on the oil pump =
not=20
getting oil to something or another quickly enough? Or is it too =
much=20
rod/crank clearance? Could it be to much wrist pin/piston=20
clearance? What should I do? If it is too much rod =
clearance, can=20
I order a set of new bearings and rod bolts, take off the oil pan, and =
put em=20
on(hopefully curing the problem)? The engine far as I know only =
knocks=20
when cold, not when under load. A very big thanks to all who =
have read=20
all of this, and an even bigger thanks to those who reply!</P>
<P>-Rob</P>
<P><BR>
<HR SIZE=3D1>
Do you Yahoo!?<BR><A=20
=
href=3D"http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Yaho=
o! Mail=20
Plus</A> - Powerful. Affordable. <A=20
=
href=3D"http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Sign=
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