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Reconditioning the Block prior to Head Install
Ron Pieper wrote:
>
> I use a steel wire brush and a stone on the block surface, with plenty of oil. By stone I mean a
> nice quality new one, which reveals any high spots. Sandpaper...maybe 320 wet/dry for tough
> spots. I use light oil when stoning, for cleanup I use brake cleaner or lacquer thinner.
>
> Don't forget to retap your head bolt holes!
>
> Since I have a stand I flip the block nearly upside done and spray the MOAB of the piston heads,
> walls, bolt holes, etc. letting the drippings fall onto newspaper (NY Times if possible, or USA
> Today in a pinch). Then wipe butt-clean with no-lint wipes. I do lightly oil cylinder walls.
> Deck surfaces MUST be desert-bone dry before gasket install!
>
> HTH
>
> Ron
OK, I have a sanding block I'll be using, I also have a stone (as yet
mostly unused) but I'm really only worried about the light rust and
oil from pulling the block.
I got the gross amount of oil & coolant off the top of the block (it's
still in the car btw) and I'll be getting a few new cans of brake
cleaner soon- I have had great cleanup success with the head itself.
Thx for mentioning the bolt holes, I stuck a rag wrapped around a
small screw driver down them to dry them mostly, anybody remember what
the tap size is, I might have one. Other wise I'll just chase them
with a bolt prior to install. (I use a few drops of fresh motor oil in
the threads during install, right?)
Tia,
TBerk
btw- Win2k I have around free, the others will have to wait my
restoration of my Pirating career.
After drying I'll clamp down the