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New HU = Dead Battery
>If you want accessory, the seatbelt warning circuit is the one, and no
>amount of probing with a test light under the dash will discover another
>one.
Not true. Obviously the signal comes from the ignition cylinder - which
would be a much better place to get it, as somebody else mentioned. Fusing
the connection from is better, and as you say if you're going to draw a
significant amount of current, a relay would be very appropriate.
On Mon, 21 Oct 2002, Vince Royer wrote:
> Guys, I strongly suggest that you don't hook the radio up to that seatbelt
> buzzer. That's just not a good idea. Rather, run yourself a wire from the
> back of the fusebox. There's a dozen or so unused metal pins on the back
of
> the box, at least one of them will be a switched ignition. Stick a female
> connector on the end of your wire, hook it up, and make sure you put an
> inline fuse on that wire. Run it right up to the deck following the same
> route as the factory wiring.
>
> Tapping into other circuits is just going to make a mess under the dash
and
> risk drawing too much current out of them. Drew is correct in saying that
> new head units don't draw very much current from the accessory lead.
> There's still no replacement for doing it properly, especially when it's
> about the same amount of work. Just break out that test light and dig
right
> in.
>
> Vince
>
Drew MacPherson - '84 Wolfsburg Edition Scirocco TurboDiesel