pass side engine mount change & injector seals

[brianm@earendel.org (brianm@earendel.org)]

Uhm any old mount will do.. it doenst have to be a 16v version.. IIRC..
brian
damn i need that hood and fender...
groubmle..


On Sat, 5 Oct 2002, Scirocco-Al wrote:

> Hey Dude,
>     I live in Columbus too. I agree all the shops around here suck.  I do
> have one I take my cars too when it's something I j ust don't want to do.
> It's called The North End Wrench and its up on Indianola just north of Cook
> road.  It's owned by a friend of mine named Dave Winger.  Dave has owned
> several VWs and Porsches and is super familiar with all that type of stuff.
> A lot of the guys in the local Porsche club take their cars to him for
> regular service and repairs instead of the dealer.  I recommend him highly
> too.  He is the only mechainic other than myself that will touch any of my
> cars (I just had him do the timing belt on my wife's Galant).  The only bad
> thing is he usually has a 3 to 4 week backlog to get in so you need to plan
> ahead.  His prices are reasonable too.
>
> As far as your mount goes, there is a white 16V Scirocco in the U-Wrech-It
> junkyard on Groveport road.  I saw some guys who might have been starting to
> pull the motor out of it today so it may or may not still be there.  If it's
> gone then talk to Jeff who works at IPS becuse his friend Joshua was the one
> looking at it.  I'm sure you could get the mount from him.
>
> Later!
>
> Alan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "broke" <broke@insight.rr.com>
> To: "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>
> Cc: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 8:46 AM
> Subject: Re: pass side engine mount change & injector seals
>
>
> Oh the timing....forget that.
> My big concern now is the fact I paid $26.44 to have Foreign Auto Car on
> Main St in Columbus, Ohio (behind the International Parts Store) press in my
> engine mount for me.
> Sure, I could have used a vise, hammer, and a little cussing to get it in,
> like I did with the tranny mount 3 weeks ago. I decided to do it the easy
> way.
> I dropped it off Friday morning, picked it up about 4pm that evening. When I
> picked it up, I thought to myself "They pressed in in upside down!" but I
> wasn't positive, and this IS a shop 'specializing in select european and
> japanese makes' so they know what they are doing, I'm new to 16V and MK1
> stuff....I'll shut up. One guy who hangs out there/works there/works at
> International told me "It's right".
> It isn't right. I got home, showed it to a few people online, compared it to
> the pic in the how-to page that was nicely provided to me by the list, and
> sure enough, they pressed it in upside down.
> It wouldnt be so bad, if they didnt have the old mount in there to use as a
> guide.
> What kind of monkey minded moron presses a piece out, then puts the new one
> in perfectly upside down?
> Oh, it gets better.
> The 4mm thick plate the mount is welded to....yeah, they bent it.
> I can see large gouge marks in the plate, where it had moved when they had
> it clamped, or something, but the marks on on both sides, the plate moved
> 15mm judging from the gouge marks in the steel, and when you lay it flat on
> a table, it is high in the middle.
> It will no longer lay flat against an engine block. It might be close, but
> I'm not putting it in. It sucked getting it out, it'll suck worse getting it
> in, and getting one in BENT won't be any easier.
> I now am stuck all weekend. I can't pry on the injectors, because the engine
> is on a jack under the pan and tilts and wobbles like it wants to topple.
> Of course they aren't open on weekends.
> I'm so mad, I'm thinking bad thoughts. Besides that, I feel like going and
> buying a new german mount bracket, another german mount, taking it to be
> pressed in today, and then charging Foreign Auto Car for all the expenses.
> I have zero luck with shops.
> Blagois, the Bosch Authorized people, they put in a clutch wrong...the
> flywheel only goes on the PP ONE way...those 2 roll pins in the flywheel say
> so. Not if you are Blagois...hell no, drive one pin into the pressure plate,
> bend the lip of that, then torque it all down.
> I've got pics of the PP with the indent of the roll pin in it, and I had a
> horrible vibration when driving....I wonder why.
> Nothing ever came of that. I contacted the BBB, tried to settle it with
> Blagois (was told "you want my VW to be as smooth as a Mustang, and bud, it
> jest ain't gonna' happen!" by the head machanic), and nothing ever happened.
> I bought a new clutch kit, and I did it myself.
> If I had a press, the mount would have been done by me too.
>
> As for the timing belt sprockets, I know there is a woodruf key in them,
> I've had my 8V apart, and they are the same way. The tensioner I will HAVE
> to mess with, as the timing belt is loose. I have a homemade tool to fit the
> tensioner, as my 8V cars all have the same tensioner with the 2 holes in it.
> It doesn't matter now, I sit until I can get the engine mounted again.
> Sorry for letting loose with the mini-novel:)
>
> Broke
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>
> To: "broke" <broke@insight.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 2:02 PM
> Subject: Re: pass side engine mount change & injector seals
>
>
> > I just want to second this statement. I just spent $1000 repairing a
> > problem brought on by removing this bolt. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOLT.
> >
> > It is torqued to almost 200 ft-lbs and spins the engine when you put a
> > wrench on it so is rather impossible to remove or install. Also the bolt
> > is one-time use and costs $8. There is a key cast in to the sprocket that
> > is essential to prevent engine damage from bad cam-crank timing. On
> > my car this key was partially crushed during the re-installation process
> > requiring me to purchase a new engine to get my car running again.
> > Don't take the bolt off! It's okay to take off the four allen bolts
> > surrounding it, though. These hold the two pulleys on to the crankshaft
> > sprocket.
> >
> > The same warning applies to the sprockets on the intermediate shaft and
> > camshaft.
> >
> > Also, don't touch the tensioner for the timing belt if possible. It's real
> > easy to 1) screw up your cam crank timing and ruin your engine or 2)
> > loosen the nut or stud in the head that the tensioner rides on thus
> > causing #1 to happen sometime in the future while you're driving around.
> >
> > Better just leave the timing belt alone unless you're replacing it now in
> > which case I hope you did your homework because it is a very sensitive
> > (but important) job.
> >
> > HTH,
> >
> > -Toby
> >
> > On Thu, 3 Oct 2002 brianm@earendel.org wrote:
> >
> > > you do NOT have to remove the large bolt on the crankshaft.
> > > brian
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thu, 3 Oct 2002, broke wrote:
> > >
> > > > OK, I've found that the belts all need removed, crank and water pump
> pulleys, both timing belt covers to get the engine mount bracket out.
> > > > I'm also afraid my FI puller tool will not work on this 16V:(
> > > > Oh well, a bit at a time I guess.
> > > >
> > > > Broke
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >   ----- Original Message -----
> > > >   From: broke
> > > >   To: Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > > >   Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 12:26 PM
> > > >   Subject: pass side engine mount change & injector seals
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >   Why is there no room to work in?
> > > >   Anyway, I have no Bentley yet, and I need to change the pass side
> engine mount on my 88 16V.
> > > >   Does the lower timing belt cover need removed?
> > > >   Are there 2 or 3 allen bolts holding the mount bracket to the
> engine? I only see 2, very oily, one loose.
> > > >   The mount is worn out so the upper timing cover nearly rested on the
> body.
> > > >   I have the front up on ramps right now, trying to figure out how to
> get this done.
> > > >   I'm thinking of putting a jack under the oil pan, taking the wieght
> off the mount, remove the big through-bolt, then lowering the engine down so
> I can get to the bolts that hold the bracket to the engine.
> > > >   I wanted to know what all needs removed or whatever to get this
> mount done.
> > > >
> > > >   I also am going to try to do the inj o-rings and inserts. I have a
> FI puller tool, for my 8V cars, but will it work on my 16V? I have the
> gasket to to between the intake manifold halves....can the manifold stay on
> for this inj seal replacment?
> > > >
> > > >   I have a VC gasket too, but I'm more concrened with the engine mount
> and o-rings now. Should I try them all at once, or what?
> > > >
> > > >   Thanks for any help!
> > > >
> > > >   Broke
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Scirocco-l mailing list
> > > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
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