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Battery Reloq. Fuses/Breakers (long)
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I think I'll skip the home breaker idea,
since the EE input suggests that it's a lost cause with the posibility of
serious casualties. I'll have to check out Berk's links soon. Tony, where
can i get that phoenix breaker you are using (don't make me come and steal
yours).
...and yes, this is for a reloq. to the trunk for weight purposes. I also
need new ground wiring, so I figure it's time to take care of all of it.
BH
----- Original Message -----
From: Anthony Pelletier <vwnuts@yahoo.com>
To: Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com>; Brian Haygood <scirious@hotmail.com>;
<scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 6:37 AM
Subject: Re: Battery Reloq. Fuses/Breakers (long)
> I use a 200(or is it 250) amp pheonix gold circut
> breaker on my MKI and its worked great. It will
> allows an intantaneous spike with out opening the
> circut, so it works for starting the car unlike the
> first one I had. It would blow if I cranked it over
> for more than 10 seconds (Don't ask why I had to crank
> it over so long. Its got a nasty hot start issue) I
> probably didn't need it, but I put it there for
> insurance so I don't have a car-b-que.
>
> .02
> Tony
>
> --- Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > --- Brian Haygood <scirious@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > ...he knows of a Supra that burned because the
> > power line in the
> > >rocker panel got pinched and sparked a fire.
> > Sounds reasonable
> > enough.
> >
> > Sounds like a careless installation.
> >
> > > So he shows me what he has..... Problem is the
> > breakers/fuses are
> > >40amps. Now I don't remember the exact number, but
> > it seems like I
> > >paid for around 6-700 cold cranking amps when I
> > bought a battery.
> >
> > I think wiring that 40A breaker or fuse into a
> > starter circuit will be
> > an enjoyable way to watch money burn. Literally.
> >
> > My wife's car - a BMW - has a rear-mounted battery
> > from the factory,
> > the +12V goes directly from battery to starter (I
> > checked the BMW's
> > Bentley, and later models use a fusible link in that
> > line, which is an
> > altogether better solution, IMO).
> >
> >
> > > Should I even bother with this?
> >
> > I'm not going to. Just use grommets, shielding,
> > common sense, whatever
> > to protect that wire!
> >
> > > I'm considering mounting all of the relays and
> > whatever fuses to them
> > >in the driver's front fender cavity in front of the
> > tire, if I get
> > >something weatherproof enough.
> >
> > Hmmm...I'm going to use the plate where the battery
> > used to be.
> >
> > > For you EE types, is there any reason I can't use
> > a household breaker
> > > meant for 120vAC? I mean, can I rig up a "10 amp"
> > breaker and expect
> > > it to trip at 100 amps on a 12volt system?
> >
> > This is an interesting question (and a true Cheapass
> > candidate). The
> > first thing that pops to mind is that Amps are Amps
> > are Amps,
> > regardless of voltage. BUT remember 120VAC is
> > measured in RMS, DC
> > amps, well, there is no RMS. It'd be a neat thing
> > to fool with.
> >
> > >Could I test this by hooking up a household dimmer
> > switch (maybe
> > >series'ed with a lightbulb or two), and hooking it
> > up to my battery,
> > >then turning down the resistance until it blows,
> > then measure that R?
> >
> >
> > You could also test by measuring the voltage drop
> > across the load. Dig
> > up an old heater resistor...please post your
> > findings!
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Cheapass Ron
> > "Victor" '87 16V Scirocco
> > "Teufelhasen" '93 Cabby <-For sale
> >
> > If it ain't foggy, TURN OFF YOUR FOG LIGHTS.
> >
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