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Was Rocco X-mas Gifts, Now Power Fuel Module








>
> Careful with the drilling, it can do more harm than good if you're letting
> hot air in (hot air is less dense so less fuel gets in which results in
> power loss). Drill only on the non-radiator-fan side and/or get some
> ducting to direct colder air in to the vicinity. Or do what I did and just
> take out the tiny plastic stock intake snorkel and replace it with a 3"
> flexible drain pipe to pull cold air from under the car behind the front
> valance.

*Actually, since the battery is in the trunk now, the holes are in the front
of the air box and I have a shield set up that blocks the hot side
---------------------------
>
> > -Battery relocated to trunk, with new starter wire & new grounds (turns
over
> > with enthusiasm now)
>
> Good, make sure its held down securely within the box so you don't have a
> corrosive battery acid accident when you go over a big bump.

*Held down tight in an actual battery box w/lid I stole from work :-P
------------------------------
>
> > -Air/Fuel Meter (made it myself, followed the DIY procedure on the .ORG
> > site, Now I just need to hook it up)
>
> Cool. Take some pictures when you get it installed..
>
> > -First of the year I will be ordering Neuspeed Springs.
>
> I prefer H&R but they're very close. I think Neuspeed has had some quality
> issues over the years, but I have no first hand experience.
>
> You will need to switch shocks as well to prevent the accelerated
> destruction of your shocks (I'm assuming you're getting lowering springs,
> not stock height replacement units).

*Actually, I bought the car on August 1st 2002, and the guy I bought it from
said he did new OEM Shocks on all 4 corners, and showed me the receipt, so
the current suspension is only about a year old, will this still be okay?
But what I was going to do down the road like in the spring was get H&R
Inserts to use in the stock struts, I've heard this works pretty well.
-------------------------------
> Also new strut bearings are a must !

*Should I do this when I do the springs, or wait until I do the inserts?
-------------------------------
>
> Don't buy the TT module. It works fine but you can build one yourself for
> $12, search the web for instructions. All you need is a relay and a
> resistor.

*well, I already built my own A/F meter for $8, might as well try this too.
---------------------------------
> The Autotech module is good but not necessarily worth the money.
> Marginally better than the TT module, unless you have a 2.0l bottom end
> where it supposedly works wonders.

*Actually, I was going to do a 2.0 bottom end in the spring/summer, I
already have one.
---------------------------------
> Buy a euro intake cam instead or make one out of a hacksawed and
> re-timed US exhaust cam. You'll see bigger gains that way.

*I have a set of factory cams from a 2.0 16v out of a GLI, are the cams the
same and can I use the 2.0 exhaust cam?




Thanks,

Brando

BTW: If any of the rest of you have any input please let me know. Thanks!