Cracked frame. :(

[flaatr@yahoo.com (Euroroc II)]

Cracked my 8V this way and it was very difficult to find some one to do the 
repair. After welding I added a sub frame, Autotech 4 point, and the repair 
lasted about 6 years then recracked in the same place.

-RGK-

At 01:41 PM 12/9/02 -0500, you wrote:
>Grr.  So, I was replacing strut inserts and wheel bearings this weekend to
>cure shudder felt in the steering wheel when going over bumps.  Also found
>a bent control arm on the drivers side, so I had to run down to the
>junkyard and grab an arm off a Rabbit. While I was under there, I found a
>crack in the drivers side control arm mount.  It is toward the back of the
>horn, where it joins the body.  There is a doubler there, the crack
>parallels the rear edge of the doubler.  So, I bought a Techtonics lower
>strut brace a few months ago, but did not have the chance to put it on
>before now.  Threw that on, cranked the horns together with a come-along,
>(measured 27" between the center of the front control arm bolts,
>she wouldn't go any further) torqued the control arm bolts, and drilled
>and bolted the rear attach points for the brace.  Now I have to degrease
>and powerwash the area and determine if it is weldable.  Anyone had
>success with this repair, and maybe can suggest a good welder in the
>Seattle area? (Chris DeLong, if you're still on the list,  is your shop
>set up for stuff like this?) My baby is old, but I want to keep her
>running!
>
>I guess the moral is, if you don't have one already, get a lower brace
>NOW!  They're cheap (I paid $65 at a local show) and take only a half hour
>to install!
>
>Dan
>
>
>--
>A burro is an ass. A burrow is a hole in the ground.
>
>          Now can you tell the difference?
>
>
>
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