MK1 wiring question- conversion from points to elec. ign.

[76Rocco@earthlink.net (Curt)]

>   So if I were to convert my 77's points ignition to electronic, I should
> eliminate the starter signal wire, right?
 Yes! but only the one that leads out to the + terminal of the coil, not the
lead from ignition switch, usually they are crimped together.


>   Also, if I remeber right, someone mentioned in a post not too long ago
that
> the resistance wire was white, or white and another color?
 Yes! usually white with a violet stripe, just FYI on my '76 it is more
clear with faint violet stripe, just wipe the wire off on the + coil
terminal and see which wire you have, to replace this wire (being that the
entire wire is a resistance wire - also known as a ballast resistor) this
requires replacing it from the fusebox connector to the + terminal (#15) at
the ignition coil.


 I finally pulled a
> non-k.s. electronic ignition today; distr., wires, and it's little brain.
Of
> the wires, a red/black lead runs from behind the fuse panel to a plastic
> connector at the coil.
Red/Black lead (output signal wire that leads to the fuel pump relay from
the - (#1) terminal at the ignition coil) Point Ignition System has this
also.


 On this same connector is a green wire that runs to
> the module.
Green wire goes from ignition coil - (#1) terminal to the ignition module
(The Brain).(This acts like a switch for the coil)


 A black wire goes from the opposite side of the coil to the
> module as well.
 Black wire goes from + terminal (#15) at the ignition coil to the ignition
module.(This supplies power to module)


Should I run the red/black lead from the coil, to the same connection as
> the on the points coil (power to the coil)?
Not to the Coil Power + terminal (#15)! but do connect it to the -(#1)
terminal on the Coil.


Donor car was an '89 cabriolet.
Cool, nice to have newer components from the doner if possible!
By the way Carl I'll send you a scanned section of a wiring diagram if you
need it, only pain I can think of is removing terminal from the connector
plug that plugs into the fusebox, you may be able to unplug it, pull it out
of the way enough in order to trim the wire to approx. 1/4" (White/Violet or
Clear/faint Violet) to the connector (remember this the resistor wire for
points ignition) and solder a new wire leading out tothe coil. I have
sucessfully made a connector extracting tool out of an old small telescoping
radio antenna (disassemble it so you have several small tubes), if you have
one or can find one it makes it alot easier to repair/replace wiring at the
connector plugs behind fusebox, usage is as follows: Disconnect Battery,
remove the screw that secures fusebox and lift it up and out of the bracket,
remove connector plug from fusebox, insert one of the "tube portions from
the antenna that fits snug in the hole but allows for up/down movement,
press the tube down and over terminal inside until it bottoms out, you
should now be able to extract the terminal from the plastic connector plug
by slightly pulling on wire (don't pull so hard that it breaks!), cut the
wire to approx. 1/4" and strip insulation from it, solder your new wire to
it, use heat shrink tubing or black tape to insulate over solder joint  on
the terminal,  you will notice two "ears" on each side, these are what hold
it in the plug and get collapsed when you removed it, take a small tool such
as a micro screwdriver and open the "ears" back up slightly to enable it to
grab the inside of the connector and remain secure, install the terminal
back into the plug, check that the "ears" are secure by lightly pulling wire
from the back, if it stays in you were successful, if not try spreading the
"ears" a little more and reinstall, route wire through firewall and up to
ignition coil + terminal,  install the plug back in fusebox, reinstall
fusebox into bracket, reinstall screw, if the rest of the ignition
components have been installed you should be able to reconnect the battery
and be done with the wiring. (hopefully you have chosen an antenna that has
the correct diameter to accomplish this - I may purchase one from radio
shack and try it so I can give out a part # to others on the list) Hope this
helped, Good Luck....Curt


----- Original Message -----
From: <Cmr446@cs.com>
To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: MK1 wiring question- conversion from points to elec. ign.


>   So if I were to convert my 77's points ignition to electronic, I should
> eliminate the starter signal wire, right?
>   Also, if I remeber right, someone mentioned in a post not too long ago
that
> the resistance wire was white, or white and another color? I finally
pulled a
> non-k.s. electronic ignition today; distr., wires, and it's little brain.
Of
> the wires, a red/black lead runs from behind the fuse panel to a plastic
> connector at the coil. On this same connector is a green wire that runs to
> the module. A black wire goes from the opposite side of the coil to the
> module as well.
>   Should I run the red/black lead from the coil, to the same connection as
> the on the points coil (power to the coil)?
>   Donor car was an '89 cabriolet.
>
> Carl
> 77rocco (back to the lift for more suspension work tomorrow)
> 89fox
>
>
> In a message dated 8/21/02 6:40:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> 76Rocco@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << You should only have two, your '81 has elctronic ignition and therefore
> does
>  not require the wire that leads from the starter signal wire terminal to
the
>  + side of the ignition coil, this was installed on the "79 and earlier
cars
>  that had ignition points and this wire fed full battery power during
>  cranking as oposed to the lower voltage supplied through the resistor
wire
>  leading from the fusebox, ignition points will burn up very quickly with
>  full voltage but by them wiring it this way during cranking it gives a
>  hotter spark while starting. >>
>
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