[16v] low end torque problem found!

[ralexander03@snet.net (Rick Alexander)]

Hmmm. I'm glad these things happen to other people as well. I don't feel so
all alone.

It can't hurt to re-torque the crank/cam gear bolt. I'd do it before setting
the valve timing. Who knows you might get lucky and it will stay that way
for a while.

Rick Alexander
http://www.brubakerbox.com
http://clubs.hemmings.com/hams/
http://clubs.hemmings.com/vwsrus/

----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>
To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 5:57 AM
Subject: [16v] low end torque problem found!


> Well.. as much evidence as I had that the knock sensor system was to
> blame, it seems that is not the case.
>
> I previously checked my cam sprocket to crank sprocket alignment and every
> time it has been dead on. Today I tried to re-time the car (ignition) but
> at full distributor rotation I couldn't even glimpse the 6 degrees mark
> in the bellhousing hole - it was on 0 degrees TDC with the distributor
> turned all the way. So I turned the engine over by hand to TDC and noted
> that the distributor was not at TDC .. the rotor was pointing a few
> degrees in the advance direction. That would be normal though because it
> changes with how much the distributor is twisted.
>
> So now I was thinking: the mechanical part of the distributor is set
> correctly - the knock brain must be retarding it by 6 degrees all the time
> (hence I'm unable to set the timing).
>
> This hypothesis was quickly blown out of the water when I noticed that
> while the sprockets read TDC, the flywheel mark for TDC was no where in
> sight.
>
> I checked twice and confirmed w/ the screwdriver-down-the-spark-plug-hole
> test that my crank sprocket and flywheel are not correctly aligned.
>
> I know why, too. The keyway on the crank that the sprocket locks in to is
> all smooshed and oversized. Despite being torqued to 175 or so ft-lbs
> around 12 months ago, the sprocket has rotated in the larger "key hole"
> and is no longer aligned with the crank as it should be.
>
> I bought a new sprocket and bolt for it last summer and tried to make it
> work but I knew it wouldn't last forever.
>
> By eyeballing it, it looks like I'm about 2 teeth off. I don't know
> whether that's cam retard or cam advance but I do know that I have lots of
> power up high and nothing at all down low. You do the math.
>
> I'm not interesting in pissing away a lot of money for nothing so it's 2
> liter time, not "pull engine and replace crank" time. I need the scoop.
> What block should I use (it's 3A(?) or ABA, right?), how should I get the
> engine out of the car (I have lots of tools but no engine stands or
> hoists), do I need an exhaust manifold spacer or any other adapters, etc..
>
> I'm also now in the market for a 2 liter shortblock in the
> Washington/Oregon/BC area. I don't want to rebuild so it's gotta be in
> good shape.
>
> For now, I figure i'll either leave it alone or try to move the belt 2
> teeth over to compensate for the sprocket. What do you guys think?
> I don't -think- it will get any worse (ie.. more teeth off) because the
> key "hole" is only about 1.5 - 1.75 times as wide as the key in the
> sprocket. I bet it has shifted all the way over already. In that case it
> probably wouldn't hurt anything to leave it how it is (other than the
> obvious PITA to drive problem).
>
> Exactly how many teeth do you have to jump to make valves kiss pistons?
>
> The other thing I don't know is if the sprocket is actually loose enough
> to shift around while revving up or down. I mean.. I don't want my cam
> timing changing by a couple teeth when I downshift and then changing back
> when I step on the gas. Not that I can help it if thats the case, but I
> don't wanna try to compensate for the 2 teeth if its gonna make my head
> blow up.
>
>
>
> ...
>
> And as if this whole fiasco wasn't enough.. my A/C _exploded_ the other
> day!
>
> I had it on while idling in my driveway when I heard a high pitched noise.
> Wasn't sure if it was just belts or something so I listened to see if I
> could find where it was coming from. Then I noticed that the A/C was
> blowing hot air instead of cold. I turned it on and off a couple times and
> listened to see if the compressor clutch was turning on and off. It was..
> then all the sudden the high pitched noise turned in to a squeal, then a
> screeEEEch. And **KABOOM** !! White smoke and vapor everywhere. A cloud
> enveloped the car as refrigerant and oil shot out from under my hood
> (which was up at the time). I felt like I was at one of those midnight
> Disneyland laser shows.
>
> It was the coolest thing my car has ever done completely by its self.. and
> the most expensive (well, maybe not anymore.. stupid crank keyway).
>
> So.. I'm pissed that I spent $55 fixing my A/C only to have it blow up
> (guess I could have used R12 and felt worse about it though) - but on the
> plus side it will get rid of all that A/C crap that takes up space under
> the hood (I have big hands) and extra weight and extra rotating mass. So
> I need non-A/C instructions and parts as well. But I want to keep my power
> steering.
>
> I've decided to pull it rather than fix it because obviously there's stuff
> wrong with it if it blew up. I only used 2 lbs of R-134a, too. My theory
> at the moment is that something clogged the expansion valve (dirt, rust,
> old dessicant, oil globs?) and the high side pressure switch was defective
> and didn't shut off the compressor so the safety release on the
> receiver-drier blew. At least that's what it looks like. I can't tell if
> the oil all over my engine came from the drier or the pressure switches.
> They both look like the point of origin and they're in the same vicinity.
>
>
>
> So now I've got plenty of car problems to face.. not particularly looking
> forward to any of them but I guess that's always true.
>
> -Toby
>
>
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