Re: US Bumpers goin on a diet.

["Randy B" <sirocco@telocity.com>]

Brian,
I just got done trying this (literaly, I saw your post and went to the
garage and started drilling/cutting).
DON'T DO IT YET!!!

Check out the following images.
(Damn I love having a digital camera and my own website, now if I could just
figure out how to design a webpage, he he)

<http://www.myscirocco.org/litebumper1.jpg>
<http://www.myscirocco.org/litebumper2jpg>
<http://www.myscirocco.org/litebumper3jpg>
<http://www.myscirocco.org/litebumper4jpg>
<http://www.myscirocco.org/litebumper5jpg>
<http://www.myscirocco.org/litebumper6jpg>

Sorry I just realized they are pretty large so they may take a little while
to load.

For those with slow connections or little patience I will describe the
problem.
If you drill out the spot welds and separate the inner and outer u-chanel,
you will not be able to re-mount the bumper skin.
Solution!:
Instead of drilling out the spot welds, use a sabre saw and cut the outer
u-chanel off (around) of the inner u-chanel.
As soon as I pull another junk yard bumper I will do this again with more
pics to describe WTF (? he he) I am talking about :)

HTH,

Randy


> Ok well I took teh US bumpers and weighed em, after draining all the fluid
> out of the bumper stops, they weigh 35lbs each.  That just won't do and
> neither will paying $500 for a euro set.
>
> So, the big metal skin part gets it's spot welds drilled tomorrow.
>
> Could one of you guys with MkI euro bumpers that aren't on the car measure
> the distance on the bump stop, from where it mounts to the bumper, back to
> the front mount hole?  Even the US bump stops drained weigh to much to
think
> about using.
>
> Randy B, didn't you mention that you might have some copies of the Euro
> stops made up?
>
> Thanks
>
> Brian H
>
>
>
>
>
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