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Re: 16v drive flange seals
Pretty much sums it up. This is one of the most *FUN* (read: pain in the
ass) things to repair on your roc!
The little 12-pt wrench for the wheel bolt covers fits perfectly in the
12-pt bolts. You can replace the bastard bolts with 6-pt cap screws or hex
headed ones, whichever you prefer.
DO get the circlip pliers. I had to grind mine down to make them fit inside
the flange. Makes the job soooo much easier. Don't even bother with
needlenose pliers. You may be able to get the clips off with regular pliers
but it is near impossible to get them back on with 'em.
I made a flange removal tool out of a bolt, a nut, and a piece of angle
iron.
Make sure not to gouge the sealing surfaces when prying out the old seals.
Use a big nasty screwdriver and pry against the splined shaft coming off the
diff. I had to put sheet metal screws in some places on the seal and pry
against those.
The seals are pretty easy to get back in. You will have LOTS of fun trying
to get the little circlip back in its groove. HINT: only open it up as much
as you have to to get it over the shaft. Otherwise it will get spread open
too far. When you get down there and do it you will see what I mean.
Good luck!
Joe
> Not that hard to do, but a pain! You will need to remove the
>flange in order to replace the seal (duh). And in order to do that, it
>requires the removal of the inner cv joint/axle from the flange. So, you
>need that special 12-point socket to remove the inner cv bolts.
>Once you get the axle up out of the way and clean out all that old grease
>then you can remove the flange. This is where you need that special tool
>that TMB talked about...basically it compresses the flange so that you can
>*safely* remove the c-clip. Then the flange should slide off and you
>can replace the seal.
> So, before you get involved make sure that you have c-clip pliers, the
>12-point driver, and the flange tool. Without these tools the job will not
>be a fun time!
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