Re: Castle Combe Track day & Small fire and brake problems! HELP!

["Andy Holmes" <scalainj@hotmail.com>]

Cheers  - That will do nicely

Drums are fine. That was what we couldn't work out as everthing looked good 
and worked fine

I shall try that right away

Andy


>From: "Ewan Hopkins" <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>
>To: scalainj@hotmail.com, scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: Re: Castle Combe Track day & Small fire and brake problems! HELP!
>Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 11:13:36 -0000
>
>If you set the self-adjuster wedge so that it was fully down before 
>installing the drum then you'd get exactly the symptoms you described. You 
>should always set it fully up, install the drum, then set the adjustment 
>once the wheel bearing & nut are installed. If you're not sure, you can 
>check without removing the wheel:
>tools required: wheel brace & jack
>something not too brittle with a pointed end, about 6-8 inches or more, not 
>including handle. A longish philips screwdriver if it has a reasonably 
>sharp tip, (pozidriv maybe?), and not the shallower ( i.e. generally more 
>useful on VWs) tip. Snap-on do a tool whose original purpose I can't 
>remember, but it's ideal for doing drum adjustment - it's like an oversized 
>bradawl with a blunt tip.
>Procedure:
>remove one wheel bolt & jack till wheel is off the ground
>using a torch to look thru bolt hole turn the wheel until you see the 
>bottom of the wedge with spring attached - it's on the left-hand side I 
>think. You can then use the pointed implement, levering against the bolt 
>hole, to pop the wedge up by hooking into the hole that the spring locates 
>into. You then want to lever it back down until there is some resistance to 
>turning by hand - it should slacken off with driving. If the wheel is off, 
>there should be a fair amount of resistance.
>Ideally you then want to do the same with the other side to balance the 
>brakes.
>
>Another tip is, if there is a lip on the drum then angle grinding it flat 
>makes it easier to install over shoes. Of course, if there's a really big 
>lip, it's possibly at its wear limit - if the wheel still spins freely at 
>the limit of the wedge adjustment then it's time to change the drum.
>
>HTH,
>
>
>Ewan.
>
>>From: "Andy Holmes" <scalainj@hotmail.com>
>>To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>>Subject: Castle Combe Track day & Small fire and brake problems! HELP!
>>Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:24:09 +0100
>>
>>Went to Castle Coombe circuit on Saturday for a bit more track action -
>>Superb (piccies to follow)
>>
>>I had a superb time
>>1st time out i drove like a girl/old woman/old man (delete as 
>>appropriate)!
>>whilst i tried to get the hang of the circuit
>>2nd time i went a lot faster as i'd discovered the brakes on my car are
>>better than i thought
>>3rd time out - The rear brakes cooked and the drivers side drum was 
>>smoking
>>a lot when we came in. Anyway we got it apart with much burning of hands 
>>to
>>find that the rear shoes had disintegrated into bits and the inside of the
>>drum was burnt along with the wheel cylinder etc so i drove home (120 
>>miles)
>>without back brakes, a horrendous noise, a loose wheel bearing and about 
>>(it
>>felt like) 2 foot of brake travel.
>>
>>Anyway yesterday i replaced the wheel cylinder and shoes on both sides and
>>cleaned everything up. However on the drivers side its really tight and 
>>had
>>a real problem getting the drum back on and now the shoes are rubbing and
>>causing massive heat build up. When i had them both apart it all looked
>>fine.
>>
>>Can anyone advise why one side spins freely but the other is rubbing and
>>what can i do to solve this problem.
>>
>>Andy
>>
>>
>>
>>
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