RE: Prep (on a budget) Q's

["Scott Williams" <sfwilliams@home.com>]

To be clear, the lower bar is absolutely required for performance use. The
upper bar makes a fairly significant difference but I'd call it optional. I
run an Autotech upper bar.
______________________________
Scott F. Williams
Account Manager
GENUiTY - Eastern Region
1 Liberty Plaza, 20th Floor
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Voice: 212. 416.1745
Fax: 212.416.1702
scott.williams@genuity.com <mailto:scott.williams@genuity.com>



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> [mailto:owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Neal Tovsen
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 2:59 PM
> To: aaron@makuta.com; 'Graffy/Carpenter'; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: RE: Prep (on a budget) Q's
>
>
> > Based on several recommendations made by listers about a month
> > back, a lower
> > stress bar is even more important than the upper bar in preventing these
> > cracks.  Is this true?
>
> I know a lower bar is also very important. My apologies, as I forgot to
> mention it. 16v's come with a good lower stress bar from the factory, so I
> sometimes forget that other people don't have one. Everything I've heard
> says that the factory 16v lower bar is as good as any aftermarket one, so
> you should be able to find a used one cheap.
>
> As far as which to get first, I couldn't say for sure. If you think about
> it, it's obvious that the lower bar was determined to be more important by
> VW since they put one on the 16v! Get them both ASAP if you drive hard at
> all. Even with both bars (I have an Autotech upper), my car is
> getting tiny
> flex-cracks in the paint at the fender/windshield/shock tower joint. I've
> seen cars that have had huge cracks that go all the way through the metal!
>
> If you have some welding skills (I don't...yet), I'm sure you could make
> either of these parts quite easily. I'd bet Cheapass Ron has all
> the details
> by now. ;)
>
> The important point is that A1 VW's are not known for a stiff
> front chassis!
>
> Neal
> '88 16v
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Aaron Ness [mailto:aaron@makuta.com]
> > Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 1:34 PM
> > To: 'Neal Tovsen'; 'Graffy/Carpenter'; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > Subject: RE: Prep (on a budget) Q's
> >
> >
> > > -Recommendations: Basic stuff like K&N air filter, Bosch/Mann
> > > oil filter,
> > > quality oil, bleed brakes with DOT-4 fluid, Ferodo or similar brake
> > > pads/shoes. Get an upper strut tower bar (Scirocco's flex a
> > > lot up there,
> > > and it could lead to chassis cracks) and a 28mm rear torsion
> > > bar to get rid
> > > of that understeer. A lot of people don't realize it, but
> > > tires are more
> > > important than any suspension setup. Get R-Compounds if your
> >
> > Based on several recommendations made by listers about a month
> > back, a lower
> > stress bar is even more important than the upper bar in preventing these
> > cracks.  Is this true?  I'm planning to eventually do both, but
> I want to
> > start with the one that does the most to save my chassis.  I
> can say from
> > experience that a cracked chassis makes for some pretty inconsistent
> > handling - my '84 would really dig in turning right, but left turns felt
> > sloppy by comparison.
> >
> > Aaron
> > '82 Scirocco
> > '70 Beetle
> > '87 Jeep Cherokee 4.0
> > '81 Honda CX500
> >
>
>
>
> --
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>


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