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Re: making CV flange spring depressor - Cheapass technique
I believe I use parts either from my generic (fit-all)
steering wheel puller or my generic fit-all harmonic
balancer puller.
A Cheapass brand solution for putting the flanges back
on is to get a ratcheting nylon strap from Big Lots
(they always seem to have a few for a coupla bucks).
Put one CV bolt in each flange and wrap the strap
around the tranny. The bolts keep the strap from
sliding off the flange. Crank that sucker down, and
your flanges compress nicely. May also work for
removing the circlips.
Has anyone used snap rings (the kind with the holes)
to replace the circlips? These would be a hell of a
lot easier to work with...I got that tool.
Cheapass Ron
--- drew <drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca> wrote:
>
> The bolt required is M10 (can't remember the thread
> pitch.) I use the
> stud that retains the timing belt tensioner to the
> head on 8V motors,
> along with a generator mounting bracket from an
> antique tractor. It works
> quite well as you have lots of thread to turn the
> nut on to compress the
> spring under the driveshaft flange, and you don't
> have to worry about
> stripping the threads in the differential shaft.
>
> Of course, it helps if you have a spare one in your
> toolbox, or a spare
> motor lying around to yank one off of. I wouldn't
> advise pulling your
> tensioner off just to use the stud... :)
>
> HTH,
>
> Drew (84 Wolfsburg Edition Snowplow)
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, 3 Jan 2001, RoccoPhil wrote:
>
> > I need to know the diameter of the threaded rod to
> get for making a CV
> > flange spring depressor tool. Specifically, the
> rod to thread into the
> > shaft. Mark from Adirondack said it doesn't have
> to be metric and couldn't
> > remember if it's 1/4" or 5/16". Anyone?
> >
> >
> > -PK
> >
> >
> >
> > --
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> >
>
> Drew MacPherson, Network Analyst, University of
> Guelph
>
> drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca | visit the
> Massey-Harris page:
> http://dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca/~drew |
> http://m-h.cs.uoguelph.ca
>
>
> --
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