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Re: Cheapass Rons Weighted Shift Rod




Personally I like the CheapAss Drew weighted shifted rod better - less
work. 

Go to the workbench/scrap-pile and root around until you find a suitable
chunk of steel - I used a piece of steel shaft about 1 1/2" in diameter
and 10" long.

Set the wire feed welder to the appropriate settings and weld the weight
to your selector shaft (it helps to weld it on the TOP side of the
selector shaft so it doesn't get in the road of anything important.)

Have a beer while it cools (or just dunk it in a pail of water/snowbank
and save the beer for later.)

Reinstall the selector shaft in the vehichle (or, if you used a spare
(good idea!), remove the old one and install the new one..)

Enjoy the benefits of a cheap weighted selector rod, which coupled with a
short-sifter kit making shifting a breeze.

Total expired time, <5 minutes (using a snowbank to avoid burning your
hands... :) )

If you don't have any suitable scrap piles hanging around, drop by your
local machine shop - they'll have something that will work, and they'll
probably give it to you.

If you're worried about cosmetics, slap a coat of high gloss tremclad on
it while it's still warm... ;)

What, no wire-feed welder?

Bummer... :)

Drew (84 Wolfsburg with cheap weighted selector shaft!)


On Sun, 25 Feb 2001, Ron Pieper wrote:

> Cheapass Ron’s Weighted Shift Rod
> 
> There are many ways out here for a cook-your-own
> weighted shift rod, but frankly, I like my way best. 
> After you paint up it looks very nice indeed,
> perfessional-like.  Here's the process:
> 
> The concept:  Slide a piece of copper plumbing pipe
> over the rod and fill with lead.
> 
> BE CAREFUL.  KEEP YOUR LITTLE KIDS FAR AWAY. WEAR THE
> GOGGLES AND GLOVES.
> 
> The parts required:
> 	-(1) piece ¾" dia. copper pipe, 8"or so (or 1" dia.,
> your choice)
> 	-(2) ¾"copper end caps (or 1")
> 	-?" dia. drill (somewhat larger than the rod
> diameter)
> 	-some lead (cake or shot)
> 	-a propane torch
> 	-goggles
> 	-welders gloves
> 	-a bench vice
> 	-pliers to hold the pipe while filling
> 	-Paint, your choice of color (optional)
> 	-steel marking crayon
> 
> 1) Get the pipe over the rod.  ¾" copper won’t fit
> over the bent rod ends, so lay it in the vise
> horizontally and squeeze it so it’s oval.  Slip the
> rod in.  Loosen, rotate the pipe so the wide end will
> be between the jaws, and squeeze it back round again.
> 2) Drill holes in the centers of the end caps
> 3) Slide one cap over the rod, fit the pipe into it. 
> 4) Clamp the rod vertically in the vise, with pipe/cap
> resting on the top of the jaws
> 5) Fire up the torch
> 6) Fill the pipe with lead:
> · If using shot, fill the pipe gradually, and heat the
> pipe bottom up so the shot melts
> · If using cake, melt it down into a container (tin
> can?) and pour in, OR hold the cake with pliers, heat
> the cake and let the lead drip into the pipe.  This is
> messy and time consuming.
> · Keep the pipe centered over the rod as you fill! 
> Use the pliers!
> · Fill it to overflowing.
> 7) Let cool.  Have a beer.
> 8) Slide the other cap over the cap and fit over the
> pipe
> 9) You can now solder the top cap if you wish.
> 10) Let cool some more.  Clean, sand, paint.  With
> crayon, mark "Cheapass Ron Products" on the pipe. 
> Install, enjoy.
> 
> If you like it enough, and if it's worthy of a tech
> procedure, I'll get some photos to Brett and burden
> him with posting.  Otherwise, it'll go into bit
> heaven.
> 
> Good luck! 
> 
> 
> 
> =====
> Ron
> '87 16V (Victor, the Famous Cheap Scirocco - ausgezeichnet!  unglaublich!)
> '93 Cab (Teufelhasen, soon for sale)
> many, many, miles and busted knuckles on seven more past watercooleds...
> 
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Drew MacPherson, Network Analyst, University of Guelph

drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca           |  visit the Massey-Harris page:
http://dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca/~drew   |  http://m-h.cs.uoguelph.ca


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