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Re: [Tech] Warming up
On 23 Feb 2001, Patrick Bureau wrote:
> 1) the car is not heating up fast
>
> I still have this problem myself in Canada, and I have done change of
> radiator(was dead), flush of cooling fluid, change water pump, and heater
> core..
> when its -20'c outside... its just damn hard for this rocco to warm up. I can
> only get 10'c into my car, if I let it sit on the corner of the street for 20
> mins idling until
> it warms up the cooling system, but once I hit the road... That water temp
> needle drops like a rock to the coldest part of the gauge, and I get barely
> tepid air.
OK, when you changed all of those components did you change the
thermostat? Sure sounds to me like that's the problem. I let my 84 warm
up for as long as it takes to clean the snow off of it. If there's no
snow, I start, let it run for 10 - secs then take it easy until I see 60c
oil temp. I hit operating temperature after about 2 miles, 60c oil temp
(what VW considers to be a wamred up engine) after about 4 miles of
driving with the ambient temps in the -10 - 15c range. Although the
coldest I've driven in with my Roc is -25, (no troubles maintaining
operating temps even at idle) none of my previous VW's have had trouble
(except the IDI diesels, which will cool at idle when temps drop below
-20) maintaining operating temps in cold weather. The exception to this
would be my '92 Golf Diesel NA, which had a little trouble on a trip to
the near north when the mercury plunged past the -45c mark - then I had to
put a piece of cardboard in front of the rad.
If you did change the thermostat, change it again with one from a VW
dealer. Your car should easily maintain it's operating temperature
(especially at speed on the road) with a properly operating thermostat to
-30 or below. Your car should also warm up faster being driven than it
will at idle at these temperatures.
Now on the interior heat thing, well that's not a strong point for A1
VW's, but if you have a new heater core and the hoses are hooked up
correctly, the regulating valve is operational and cable adjusted properly
(non-ac) then you should get all you can get, IF your engine is at proper
operating temperature.
HTH,
Drew (84 Wolfsburg)
Drew MacPherson, Network Analyst, University of Guelph
drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca | visit the Massey-Harris page:
http://dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca/~drew | http://m-h.cs.uoguelph.ca
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