Re: upgrading to g-grind cam TECH INFO

["RoccoPhil" <roccophil@mindspring.com>]

Gonna share some cool info I found in a British VW mag over the weekend.
Actually picked up some awesome tech info:

Seems that one of the high quantity replacement parts items is hydraulic
lifters (tappets, as Brits call 'em).  Why?  Because normally when they
start to go bad people buy a new set, drop them in, and then 12-20k later
they crap out again.  The reason being that the valve guides have worn and
the play causes rapid, irregular wear of the new lifters.  This mag
suggested that IF your lifters have gone bad from regular wear (not for the
reasons of oil pressure problems), then it's best to do some significant
head rebuild work (specifically, replace the valve guides) so as to not
revisit the same problem again shortly.

I think it an interesting point and one I'll take into consideration.  I
know that w/ the 16v I just bought, the PO had had the exact thing happen
(190k on the clock).  SOOOOOOOO......

Replace the guides & seals whilst you are there.




> Or, you could do this while the head is on!!!  Just mod (some cases you
> won't have to) a compression gauge and pressurize the cylinders and pop
the
> springs off!  Just be careful not to drop them into the cylinder if the
seal
> breaks!!  I have done this before and didn't have any problems replacing
> springs and valve guide seals!  The only other thing you will need when
you
> install the cam (if you don't do anything else, you HAVE to do this!!) is
> the correct shims!!  Those shims will probably be in the 390+ area since
you
> will have a larger gap to compensate for with the G-grind cam!  HTH!!
>
> Dave
>
> >
> > On Mon, 12 Feb 2001 23:05:49 EST WaspHwy@aol.com writes:
> > >hi, I am planning on upgrading the cam in my 84 gti to a g grind or
TT's
> > 268
> > >sport cam. what all should I do while I have the cam out? i have a new
> > >valve cover gasket (of course), but what about lifters (my dad, a chevy
> > guy,
> > >says you should always change lifters when you change a cam) springs,
> > etc?
> >
> >
> > OK, one thing to know here. This is NOT a chevy. V8 rules don't apply to
> > VW's, not even a little. Since the motor in question is of a solid
lifter
> > variety, you don't need to change them but rather, adjust them after the
> > cam is in. Are you going to install the cam in the head on the car or
> > will you pull the head?
> >
> > What you could change is buy a set of HD valve springs. They're a little
> > stiffer to help with high rpm's (valves don't float) and the best part
is
> > they should (in theory) all have the same spring rates. Older springs
can
> > have varying spring rates from all the heat cycles ect but, this is
> > usually not a problem. (Most people don't even notice it.)
> >
> > If your gonna change the valve springs, why not replace the valve stem
> > seals while your in there. Its easy enough to do.
> >
> >
> >
> > >I would like to get as many things out of the way as far as maintenance
> > while
> > >I have it stripped down. thanks for any help
> >
> >
> > Exactly how far the stripping is gonna go will determine how much can be
> > done.
> >
> >
> > Shawn Meze
> > 86' Jetta GLi 8V       84' Scirocco 8V           88' Corvette "SS"
> > 82' Scirocco GTi -FSP 30-   79' "Project FSP Scirocco"
> > The Fastest, Quickest, Cleanest and best looking Scirocco in all of San
> > Diego!
> > http://www.Geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/1308/index.htm
> >
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