Re: M6 vs. M8 bolt torque rear main seal..

["Chris DeLong" <green536@hotmail.com>]

Loctite is also important use as it will prevent oil form seeping past the 
threads and contaminating you new clutch.

A good way to retain the PP so you can torque the bolts is to have a chain 
and attach it to one of the blts that holds the tranny to the engine and 
thread it in and then use a flywheel bolt (spare or otherwise) and that 
should reatain the PP.

I never understood the idea behind run-on sentences ;-)

Chris DeLong
ICQ#45030867
Seattle, WA USA
'80 16V 'Rocco ragtop
'91 GLi 2.0 16V
'77 Rabbit 16V
'80 'Vert (parting out!)
'61 17 Window type II
'91 Vanagon
'78 Rabbit



>From: Dan Bubb <jdbubb@ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: jdbubb@ix.netcom.com
>To: Brian McGarvey <brianm@zbt62.eastnet.gatech.edu>
>CC: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: Re: M6 vs. M8 bolt torque rear main seal..
>Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 07:54:53 -0400
>
>The threaded portion of an M6 bolt is 6mm or about 1/4" (10mm hex head).
>An M8 is 8mm or about 5/16" (13mm hex head on a VW, 12mm on some
>Japanese cars ;^P).
>The bolt that holds the timing pulley to the crank seems to be a good
>way to keep the crank from turning.
>Loctite, as suggested by Peter in his response, is recommended and is a
>damn good idea since the PP and flywheel weigh a bunch and are rotating
>really fast approximately in line with your right testicle!
>
>Brian McGarvey wrote:
> >
> > Hello...
> > Duh I dont kow the diff between an M6 and M8 bolt.
> > So I cant torque down the bolts to reassemble the rest.
> >
> > the bolts i'm talking about are on the rear of the block. and hold the
> > large metal plate onto the block and the rear main seal.
> > thanks
> >
> > also any suggestions for the shade tree for holding the flywheel still
> > during torqueing of the flywheel bolts?
> > brian
> > 87 16v.. striupped and gone stuff still up for grabs.
> > 85 Cabby loaner..
> > 82 Cabby no engine
> > 81 S new owner MIA.
> >
> > --
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>
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>


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