Re: broken head stud

[Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com>]

Drew's advice is all good, esp. about removing the
intake manifold.  But I have failed to remove a broken
stud, and the head had to come off.  Only to find that
two of the head bolt holes in the block were very
corroded and required helicoils to fix.  

Try to remove the stud, but be aware that if you f**k
it up, you *may* ruin the head.  

Good luck in any case, 

Ron


--- drew <drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca> wrote:
> 
> I assume you mean one of the exhaust manifold studs
> that are in the head?
> These can be removed with the engine in the car, but
> it's an unpleasant
> job.  If the studs is broken off flush or inside the
> head (what I usually
> see on JH engines, especially on #1 for some reason)
> then the following
> will work:
> 
> A right-angle drill (air tool) will make the job a
> hell of a lot easier,
> but if you have a fairly small electric drill that
> you can get between the
> head and the firewall then that will work too.
> 
> You'll also need a good quality screw extractor kit
> (years ago I spent
> about $30 CDN on a 5-piece kit and have never
> regretted it as I haven't
> broken an extractor yet (KOW))
> 
> Remove the exhaust manifold and the intake too to
> make it easier to get in
> there, especially if it's an upper stud.
> 
> Using a sharp centre-punch mark the centre of the
> stud and drill a small
> pilot hole straight down the centre of the stud
> (this is the tricky part
> - you want to be true here or else you'll drill into
> the head when you use
> a bigger bit)
> 
> You next want to drill out to the size of the
> extractor that you'll use.
> I'm afraid I don't remember what size drill bit I
> use, but you generally
> want something that is between 50% and 60% of the
> size of the stud (8mm)
> With care you should be able to drill down the
> length of the stud (there's
> a small space at the bottom of the hole in the head,
> so you'll feel it
> when the drill drops into this space, if you're
> gentle with the bit.  Use
> a mirror as you're drilling to ensure that you're
> drilling in at a right
> angle, as you don't want to drill into the head.
> 
> When your second hole is drilled, drive your
> good-quality screw extractor
> into the hole with a hammer, and turn the stud out
> (you want to chose a
> suitably sized extractor that will get the most
> 'bite' in the stud.) By
> the time you've drilled the stud, the vibrations and
> the heat will likely
> have loosened up the threads, by the time you've
> driven in the extractor,
> then they should be loose for sure, and that stud
> will back out with
> little or no trouble at all.
> 
> I've used this procedure countless times now
> (usually while the engine is
> out of the car, which makes it much easier) and it
> has never failed.  Just
> remember to use a good-quality screw extractor - if
> the extractor should
> break off in the stud, you're sunk!
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Drew (84 Wolfsburg Ed.)
> 
> On Mon, 2 Apr 2001 Scirocco2l16v@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > My brothers car doesn't want to be fixed.  I got a
> rear for the car (thanks to Peter in Del.) put it in
> this weekend.  But when I went to do the exhaust
> manifold, I noticed that one of the head studs was
> broken in the head.  Is there anyway to get the stud
> out without taking the head off?  Thanks for the
> help so far.  The car will be on the road soon, I
> hope....
> > 
> > -Dave Kirsch
> > 
> > --
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> 
> Drew MacPherson, Network Analyst, University of
> Guelph
> 
> drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca           |  visit the
> Massey-Harris page:
> http://dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca/~drew   | 
> http://m-h.cs.uoguelph.ca
> 
> 
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