Re: help- headhasket/ head re pair.

[Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com>]

> << The head studs are designed to stretch when they
> are torqued down and
>  cannot be reused.  You should purchase new ones.  I
> got mine from
>  Techtonics.  

Last time I did this, I think the dealer charged me
about $35 for the set.  I thought that was reasonable.
 IMO no need to use the fancy ARP ones if this is a
maintenance job on a stock engine.

> money.  #2.  I used one of 
> those cheap ass torque wrenches, you know the one
> that just has a bar with a 
> needle.  That was 5 years ago and I have no problems
> with the head gasket or 
> engine. Am I lucky? Probably.  

Probably not, at least as far as the wrench.  Those
"cheapass" torque wrenches have built untold millions
of engines perfectly well, including every one I ever
built and none have had a torque-related (or
subsequent headgasket) problem.  I still have the same
torque wrench (Craftsman!) I bought when I built my
first auto engine about...uhh...23 years ago.  New
"click" type are better but the beam-and-arm style
ones are sufficient IMO.

A headgasket change can be intimidating for the first
timer but follow a few simple rules in addition to the
Bentley:
-DONT rush the job...it takes time, esp. the first
time.
-CLEAN the piss out of everything and I mean
everything, including threaded holes (retap) and bolts
(wirebrush)
-Label every vacuum line and electrical connection *as
you remove it* with little manila file sticky labels
(get 'em at Wal-Mart or Krogers)
-Get a box of ziplock freezer bags and toss the nuts,
bolts, brackets, etc. in as you remove major
components.  Label the freezer bags.

This may sound dumb and obvious but take my
advice...JFDI (Just F***** Do It)!

Good Luck, dive in the water's great!

=====
Ron
'87 16V (Victor, the Famous Cheap Scirocco)
'93 Cab (soon for sale)
many, many, miles and busted knuckles on about seven or so past watercooleds...

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