RE: Cheapass Ron's Pressure Bleeder

["Antaki" <wrack@home.com>]

>From one Ron to another:

I have the Motive Products' brake bleeder, and heve looked at making my own
from the same parts as you did. The only serious problem I had with doing so
is that I bought the Motive product first. Oh, well.

But, don't get all swell-headed about being such a cheapass; I made several
prototype DIY pressure bleeders, using a tin quart brake fluid can, bicycle
pump. I used the replacement Presta valves that may still be available, they
are meant to be bolted onto a bicycle tire tube to replace one that had
failed. (If interested, ask me how to replace the whole tube in a sew-up
tire w/o ripping it open more than 2".)

This worked, but not all that well, so I was delighted to see the Motive
bleeder. Afterwards, whilst walking through the OSH Hardware store isle I
saw the small sprayer, groaned, and had a sudden urge to go out to the
parking lot and bleed somebody's brakes.

 R    ô¿õ
 o
Antaki

 - There's a little Quayle in that Bush...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> [mailto:owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Ron Pieper
> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2000 8:16 AM
> To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: Cheapass Ron's Pressure Bleeder
>
>
> After reading how folks drooled over the Motive Power
> Bleeder, and reading how some Volvo guy made his own,
> I figured this wasn't rocket science and therefore
> within my grasp.  Being a cheapass, here's what I did:
>
> -Bought a Sears 1 gal. Polyethelyne Sprayer (711511)
> $15
> -About 3' 5/16" clear tubing and two little hose
> clamps (about a buck total).  Use enough tubing to fit
> from the M/C to the tank as it sits on the ground.
> -one tire valve (free, laying around)
> -one spare brake master cylinder cap (free from a bud)
>
> The sprayer comes with a hose attached to a trigger
> valve, to which a wand fits.  I shortened that hose to
> about 8" and cut the wand down to 1".  Put the 5/16"
> hose over the shortened wand and clamped.
>
> Took the M/C cap and removed the float and sensor
> guts. The remaining hole is too big for the tire valve
> so I cut a disk from the bottom of an old 5 gal.
> bucket, drilled a hole in the center, and inserted the
> disk into the cap.  Pulled the tire valve through the
> hole.  Used the old M/C cap gasket.  Now I had a M/C
> cap with a tire valve sticking out the top!  Revmoved
> the valve part and connected the other end of the
> 5/16" hose.
>
> Put one qt. brake fluid into the sprayer, pumped it up
> lightly, and connected the m/c cap to the master cyl.
>
> Cracked loose a bleed nipple and checked the pressure
> with a fuel pressure gage...about 20 or so psi.
> Attached my normal clear line to the nipple and let
> the fluid run until clear...what a breeze!  I didn't
> even have to remove the wheels, just crawled under and
> away I went.
>
> The whole operation (after I got the parts) took about
> an hour and fifteen minutes, including the bleeding.
>
> Improvement possibility:  drill a hole into the tank
> and fit a tire valve, so the tank pressure can be
> checked with a tire gage.
>
> Good luck,
>
>
>
>
> =====
> Ron
> '87 16V (Victor, the Famous Cheap Scirocco)
> '93 Cab (soon for sale)
> many, many, miles and busted knuckles on about seven or so past
> watercooleds...
>
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