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RE: Bad rod bearing?
Slight correction here....you cannot change all the main bearing caps with
the motor in the car, at least not on a 16V unless you have a special way of
getting the end caps off.The side plates fit a hair less than flush the main
bearin bolt heads, preventing a normal socket or wrench from turning them. I
overcame this by cutting a 12 point socket nearly in half and being ver
careful. This is not easy and ver time time consuming....I dont reccomend
it. But the rods will be fine to change, just be real careful trying to get
the top halves off.....then again ymmv
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org
[mailto:owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of DNK006@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2000 11:23 AM
To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
Subject: Re: Bad rod bearing?
I believe that the "break-in" period for an engine is so that the rings wear
nicely on the honed cyl. walls, so they seal good... anything less that 2000
will get too little oil on the walls, and anything more that 3000 (or
something like that) will cause oil to build up, and leak under the new
rings, making everything to suck.... (I hate to seen off-the-lot VW's get
beat on, it's a sure path to death at 60k). Cam shafts need something of a
break in period to (actually for the lifters). You can change all the
bottom
end bearings, including the crank, with just the oil pan off. However, be
sure to note conditions of the journals. If it is knocking, damage can and
will occur.
As for plastigauge, it is easy to use, just crush and line up with the key
on
the package. Be sure to use lots of assembly lube before you start her up!
Hope this helps (and if anyone knows more about break in times, let me know)
Ben
84 8v
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