Re: [2 liter 16v] Brain Picking Cont'd

[Eric L Ellis <elf16v@juno.com>]

First off, what engine are you starting with? If it's a 2.0 (I hope) You
can get JE Pistons for as low as 650.00 maybe lower. If you are building
a 1.8...I would recommend starting over.

The gains of a 2.0 16v with a 1.8 head are respectable. Don't let the
small hp #'s fool you. (123 to 134) The throttle response is quite
noticeable. You can also put a TDI crank in the 2.0 bubble block and have
95.5mm vs the 92.8mm of a 2.0. These can be had for somewhere in the
500.00 range. I have a spare crank standard size 92.8mm that I'd sell for
MUCH less than Autoschmuk. (bastards sell stock parts as "sport tuned"
parts...pisses me off!)

A local shop will bore the block for 10.00/cylinder for me but I know
that these prices are subject to region and shop reputation. Hone the
thing yourself and save some bucks, it's real easy.

I'll stop here until I hear from you off line about the starting size
block you have. I have rebuilt 4 16v's in the past 2 years (2 1.8's & 2
2.0's) and I am starting on my 2.1 G60/16v as soon as I get the $$!

-Eric

On Wed, 29 Mar 2000 14:19:21 -0500 "Peterson/Doty"
<bdoty@columbus.rr.com> writes:
>     After spending $30 for the 12pt 12mm driver to remove the head of 
> my
> project engine, I'm ready to tear down the important stuff.  Since 
> this is
> my first experience w/ engine rebuilding I naturally have tons of 
> questions.
> I have already received tons of info from fellow listers and am very
> grateful for the knowledge shared w/ me.  A service manual is no 
> substitute
> for experience IMHO.  This is definitely a long-term project and I 
> want to
> do everything I can while the engine is apart to make this a 
> well-running,
> reliable, somewhat cost-effective, VTEC eating monster.  On to the 
> q's:
> 
> 1)  Is it worth going with 83mm pistons?  I know TT sells them for 
> about
> $700 but what kind of labor cost am I
>       looking at for machine shop work?  Pros/cons of punching it 
> out to 2.1
> w/ forged pistons?
> 
> 2)  Should I stick with the original rods or buy new?  What should I 
> look
> for when inspecting the rods when I pull
>       them?
> 
> 3)   Does the block require any prep other than hot-tanking if it is 
> to be
> painted?  Any experiences with painting,
>       powder coating, ceramic coating, etc. would be very helpful.
> 
> 4)  One of my main concerns is replacement of fasteners and tapping 
> the
> holes.  I've already stripped/broken 3
>       different bolts and one broke off flush with the block.  I 
> know I will
> replace things like head bolts, rod bolts,
>       crank sprocket bolt, etc. but what about less critical things 
> like
> exhaust manifold studs?  Can you get these
>       in stainless so they're not a PITA in the future?  Should I 
> get a
> machine shop to tap/clean all the holes in the
>       block cuz I don't think I want to even ask what a tap and die 
> set
> costs.
> 
> That's all for today, thanks for your input and patience.
> 
> Jeremy Sawyer
> '86 16v
> '84 Quantum GL5
> 

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