Re: The synthetic oil problem (warning, very very long.)

[Eric L Ellis <elf16v@juno.com>]

> Check the manual for the temps in your area. That said it seems the
> thicker is a bit better, but then again that's my opinion. I'm using
> 15w-50 Mobil in my 156 plus thousand GTI engine. It don't leak. 
> 
> Go from there,
> TBerk


Or better yet, start right here.


Now for the people willing to learn something new, here it is in long
form.

Why do you think synthetic oil is so much better for your car?
1.) Less friction (less wear and more hp! it's dyno proven)

2.) Retains more of it's original characteristics through the wear cycle

3.) Dispersant chemicals added at a molecular level (fancy word for
detergents)

4.) Do not need the addition of polymeric thickeners (i'll get to that in
a minute)

5.) It's not burdened with useless contaminants like ALL conventional
motor oils




The downside in higher mileage engines: (refer to #'s above)
1.) As anyone who has ever torn down a high mileage (conventional motor
oil using) engine can tell you, the rings can generally be removed from
the pistons with little effort. This is because the heat, to a small
degree, has caused the rings to loose some of their elasticity; but, this
is mostly due to the loss of ring material giving it less surface area to
hold it's shape. WHEN YOU SWITCH TO A SYNTHETIC OIL on an engine with
higher miles, the rings can no longer 'bite' the cylinder walls with the
same strength due to the synthetic's superior lubricating qualities.
Thus, you have the possibility for blow by that was not present before.

2.) This is not a bad thing at all. It does become a concern when it
comes to oil changes though. Different synthetic oil makers will rarely
tell you the same oil change intervals. Some say 5000 miles, others state
that normal driving will allow you to go 12,000 miles, and one (AMSOIL)
has said you can go for 100,000 miles with only filter changes and
topping off the level. A bit of confusion? Yes. Perhaps this will help.
In 1997, I read an independent study of OIL FILTERS. (I wish like hell I
could give you the institute's name but I can't remember) They tested
Framm, Motorcraft, Purolator, Mann, and others. You'll be happy to know
that your suspicions were true. Framm was at the BOTTOM of the list in
lasting filtration; however, ALL of the filters tested "failed" before
the "standard" 3000 mile mark by opening the bypass valve and allowing
unfiltered oil to flow freely. (NOTE: the test was simulated) Food for
thought.

3.) Dispersant chemicals are part of most motor oils. (unless noted on
the bottle as non-detergent) In conventional motor oils they are used to
both clean up the contaminants caused by unburnt fuel getting into your
crank case and combat the inevitable breakdown of that oil due to normal
wear/heat. In short, they are there to prevent the development of sludge
or varnish in the engine. (doesn't always work that way) It may surprise
you to know that synthetic motor oils, for the most part, not only have a
HIGHER concentration of these detergents, but also allow the detergents
to work to a higher degree of efficiency. Typically an engine will see
comparatively less flow of clean oil and a buildup of sludge at the end
of oil galleys and in the 'cup' of seals. Again, WHEN YOU SWITCH TO A
SYNTHETIC OIL on an engine with higher miles, you run the risk of
cleaning these deposits away. It's good for that to happen at the oil
galley (as long as you filter can do it's job) but not always so good at
the seal. As oil sludge heats and cools, it becomes harder (ie. 'carbon')
and can deform the seal. When the detergents "free" this seal, it MAY
have a "memory" of this deformation. That seal is then likely to leak.

4.) Again, this is one of those good things. Polymeric thickeners are
added to conventional motor oil to widen the multi grade range. (ie. 30w
vs 10w/30 vs 20w/50) THE PROBLEM IS: These thickeners are large on a
molecular level and when they are subjected to extreme conditions,
(sheering force) they breakdown and cause varnish and sludge. (refer to
#3)

5.) Oh my God...yet another great feature of synthetic oil. It's just the
"nature of the beast" when it comes to conventional oil. The chemicals
added to crude oil and the refining process it goes through can not
remove all of the contaminants found in conventional motor oil. Guess
what those contaminants do...? That's right, refer back to #3.



NOTE TO ALL: 

I am NOT telling you that switching to synthetic motor oil will cause
leaks in your "high mileage" engines. I'm saying that it is a
possibility.

I am NOT telling you that synthetic motor oils are bad. I rather enjoy
them myself. (though i don't care for semi-synthetics or blends but
that's just my opinion)

I DO hope that this explains things for those wishing to UNDERSTAND the
subject of synthetic motor oils. (vs "I use it and it's great.")

I have seen the bad results and been adversely affected by the
aforementioned swap as well.

Eric
Good, bad...I'm the guy with the gun.


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