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Re: Audio nuts only
I only redo part of the existing panel
----- Original Message -----
From: William J Erikson <williamjosiah@juno.com>
To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 1999 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: Audio nuts only
> How does one go about making custom panels? The whole door panel, or do
> you just replace part of it?
> -Josiah
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, 11 Jun 1999 12:16:14 -0400 "Mike" <lerb@redrose.net> writes:
> > Sounds like you are forced into a comprimise because of where you
> >live...I am glad this is not the case here. The last person that poked
> >his
> >nose into my car by way of a crowbar was met at the other door with my
> >nine
> >milimeter. For some odd reason he was willing to pay me twice what my
> >door
> >damage was to not be turned over to the police ( I did not take it
> >tho). Too
> >bad situations like this are all too common....I will make ayone
> >custom
> >panels from the list at cost if they ever wish to get out of the
> >stock
> >crappy system situation. You are just not able to make a oval
> >speaker
> >produce the sounds that are sometimes desired. The oval speaker in the
> >worst
> >desighn ever made!
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Andrew Holmes <aholmes@chubb.com>
> >To: Mike <lerb@redrose.net>
> >Cc: <bgsterling@earthlink.net>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> >Sent: Friday, June 11, 1999 12:15 PM
> >Subject: Re: Audio nuts only
> >
> >
> >> Ok fair enough but not many people wish to hack their door panels or
> >even
> >fit
> >> custom panels in order to obtain a set up like yours. Taking the
> >standard
> >door
> >> apertures with 6*4 which if i read correctly the original mail from
> >William is
> >> using a comprimise has to be made between soundstage/depth/volume
> >and the
> >only
> >> way without changing the apertures is to use rear speakers.
> >> Whilst i appreciate this is not ideal, for everyday use it is fine
> >and i
> >have
> >> no intention of entering any competitions for any aspect of in-car
> >stereo.
> >> In an ideal world i would follow the route you have taken but the
> >prohibitive
> >> cost in the UK of custom panels and high end car hi-fi not to
> >mention our
> >> appalling amount of car theft make the value of such a set up
> >dubious
> >here.(i.e.
> >> approaching the cars value and thus uninsurable)
> >> Just as a point the cost of my front end set up is approxiamately a
> >third
> >more
> >> than the rear but because i use the stock apertures in the front
> >(with
> >seperate
> >> tweeters) i require 6*9 in the rear to provide the extra depth
> >(40-100hz)
> >to
> >> complete the soundstage.
> >> As i pointed out before this is appropriate to UK spec cars and may
> >help
> >anyone
> >> who is beginning thier own custom install. A three way set up in the
> >which
> >is
> >> anyway visible (in fact any visible quality hi-fi) especially in
> >London
> >where i
> >> live (all my speakers other than the tweeters are hidden - fronts
> >in
> >standard
> >> apertures, rears in custom "Stealth" shelf/deck which makes setting
> >up
> >very
> >> hard) usually results in a short time in the theft of the vehicle or
> >the
> >> components with large damage.( i have had 3 break-ins and 4 lots of
> >vandalism in
> >> the past 18 months)
> >>
> >> Anyway thankyou for your comments which i read with interest and you
> >never
> >know
> >> my increased knowledge may well help in the future.
> >>
> >> Andy
> >> 91Scala 8v
> >> Mike wrote:
> >>
> >> > I have a three way system in the front with a 6"1/2, 5"1/4, and
> >a
> >titanium
> >> > 1" tweet in each door powered by a 4X50 PPI. All of this is driven
> >by a
> >Sony
> >> > deck into a parabolic divider.....No actually I do not have a loss
> >of
> >sound
> >> > Q in the front...but then again I do not think many peoples front
> >stage
> >is
> >> > so indepth. I have seen it many times in competition when a guy
> >will try
> >to
> >> > enhance the week spot of his car by boosting another area of the
> >car.
> >Never
> >> > made sense to me and nor does it to judges or a RTA. Do your front
> >sound
> >> > stage right and don't waste power to the back. I would rather
> >spend
> >money on
> >> > a good set of speakers than two ok ones and place all my money up
> >> > front.....JMO....
> >> >
> >> > BTW anyone want to but a Opti 500? I need to get more power to
> >the
> >isoberics
> >> > in the back 500 watts does not cut it anymore
> >> > ----- Original Message -----
> >> > From: Andrew Holmes <aholmes@chubb.com>
> >> > To: Mike <lerb@redrose.net>
> >> > Cc: <bgsterling@earthlink.net>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> >> > Sent: Friday, June 11, 1999 10:46 AM
> >> > Subject: Re: Audio nuts only
> >> >
> >> > > Don't you find that without rear speakers it is very difficult
> >to get
> >a
> >> > good
> >> > > volume/bass combination bearing in mind the front aperture is
> >6*4
> >only. I
> >> > use
> >> > > custom Pioneer 6*4 midrange and custom 1" Pioneer tweeters
> >running at
> >80hz
> >> > + and
> >> > > 40w per channel pure (100wRMS). I found that using just the
> >fronts
> >would
> >> > give a
> >> > > good soundstage but no depth and a lack of bass. If i allow a
> >lower
> >> > frequency
> >> > > say 50hz to run through the fronts then i get depth at the
> >expense of
> >> > power
> >> > > handling as the 6*4 units struggle to deliver any bass/volume
> >combination
> >> > and at
> >> > > motorway speeds (85mph) the bass disappears as the
> >road/wind/engine
> >noises
> >> > drown
> >> > > it completely.
> >> > > I appreciate the back speakers provide your back seat passengers
> >with
> >> > excellent
> >> > > sound but the purpose of a quality car audio is to balance the
> >sound
> >> > against the
> >> > > deficiences of the enviroment (a steel box not being the best
> >acoustic
> >> > platform)
> >> > > so ideally you should centre the sound and imaging
> >approxiamately
> >above
> >> > the
> >> > > gearstick/slightly to your front and to do this including a
> >reasonable
> >> > (not
> >> > > neceesarily thumping) bass will require the back speakers.
> >> > > You are quite correct about the hatch creating a "megaphone"
> >effect as
> >my
> >> > JBL
> >> > > 6*9's can if i provoke them quite comfortably match my friends
> >twin
> >10"
> >> > > Rockfords in a box in the back of his 325i but i generally like
> >to end
> >my
> >> > > journey without my ears bleeding and ringing.
> >> > > However if you are careful in selecting your components, use
> >decent
> >> > cabling
> >> > > (this is very important and can make a huge difference) and are
> >prepared
> >> > to
> >> > > spend time on a careful installation and setup then you can
> >obtain a
> >very
> >> > high
> >> > > quality sound without resorting to subs.
> >> > > In my humble opinion this can be acheived with the minimum of
> >> > > Head Unit
> >> > > 4 channel amp(with built in crossover)
> >> > > 4 quality speakers
> >> > > Good quality interconnect and speaker cables
> >> > >
> >> > > Lastly if you are running your'e power directly from the battery
> >do
> >put an
> >> > in
> >> > > line fuse on the cable as close to the battery as possible (mine
> >is
> >> > strapped to
> >> > > the battery) which will probably save you a lot of cash in the
> >event
> >of
> >> > you
> >> > > making an error on installation or a short within the set up.
> >> > >
> >> > > Please note all of the above is based on my personal experience
> >with a
> >UK
> >> > spec
> >> > > vehicle and may or may not be applicable to US or other specs.
> >> > > I hope some of the above gives some background info which maybe
> >useful
> >but
> >> > a
> >> > > word of warning. Once you start upgrading the in car audio you
> >are
> >taking
> >> > the
> >> > > first step on a path where every upgrade will show up the
> >weakest link
> >in
> >> > your
> >> > > system thus prompting another upgrade and so on and so forth
> >> > >
> >> > > Enjoy
> >> > > Andy
> >> > > 91 Scala 8v
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > Mike wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > > Well as far as the ba ck speakers get rid of them...a good
> >system
> >only
> >> > > > eliminates sounds from behind you anyways...I like to think of
> >it
> >this
> >> > > > way...Where do you hear voices from? In front of you right?
> >Well
> >every
> >> > > > single voice you hear from the back you wil have to over power
> >from
> >the
> >> > > > front. So why have rear? Only reason to ever have rear is if
> >you
> >have an
> >> > > > audiance in the back. Actually another reason would be if you
> >were
> >goig
> >> > to
> >> > > > add a center channel but it does not look like you are about
> >to do
> >that.
> >> > If
> >> > > > you don't want thump stay away from a sub altogether. I think
> >a good
> >set
> >> > of
> >> > > > speakers up front will help your sound alot but I am not sure
> >how
> >you
> >> > are
> >> > > > going to avoid thump. Our cars have whats refurred to as a
> >megaphone
> >> > affect
> >> > > > with the rear hatch reflecting alot of sound off of the glass
> >and
> >> > actually
> >> > > > enhancing the sound pressure forward in the cab which makes
> >any bass
> >> > > > produced from te rear sound like thump. I have had people ask
> >me
> >what
> >> > size
> >> > > > subs I had me when I only had part of my system installed in
> >my car
> >(4,5
> >> > 1/4
> >> > > > Mb Quarts in the rear deck before I knew better than to put
> >them
> >there).
> >> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> >> > > > From: Brad Sterling <bgsterling@earthlink.net>
> >> > > > To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> >> > > > Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 12:21 PM
> >> > > > Subject: RE: Audio nuts only
> >> > > >
> >> > > > > As long as this is a thread for newbie questions...
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > I'm wanting to add a small subwoofer and amp to the stock
> >system
> >in my
> >> > 16V
> >> > > > > for a little for power (unh! Unh! Unh! (in your best Tim
> >Allen
> >> > voice)).
> >> > > > > From my research, it sounds like I need a 4 channel amp
> >with low
> >> > level
> >> > > > > inputs (so I can connect the speaker wires in) and low/high
> >> > crossovers.
> >> > > > > The idea is send the front speaker wires into the amp, two
> >channels
> >> > out
> >> > > > > through a low filter to the front speakers and two channels
> >bridged
> >> > > > through
> >> > > > > a high filter to the subwoofer. The end result should be
> >the
> >front
> >> > > > > speakers handle the midrange/treble duties and the
> >subwoofer
> >handle
> >> > the
> >> > > > > bass. Actually, now that I put this in writing, what do I
> >do with
> >the
> >> > > > rear
> >> > > > > speakers? If I connect them to the same channels as the
> >front
> >> > speakers, I
> >> > > > > lose fader function and if I connect them to the subwoofer
> >channels,
> >> > I'll
> >> > > > > have the wrong filter in place. Okay, I give up. How can I
> >put
> >some
> >> > more
> >> > > > > power through the stock system without creating a car that
> >thumps?
> >> > Should
> >> > > > > I just get an amplified bass tube and some inline low
> >filters for
> >the
> >> > > > > speakers?
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > -Brad
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> >> > > > > From: William J Erikson [SMTP:williamjosiah@juno.com]
> >> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 1999 12:25 PM
> >> > > > > To: CAPTIANBR@aol.com
> >> > > > > Cc: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> >> > > > > Subject: Re: Audio nuts only
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > I'd say your best bet is to get an amp that has a built-in
> >crossover
> >> > and
> >> > > > > is bridgeable. Crossovers filter out certain frequencies.
> >Most
> >> > > > > bridegeable amps with built-in crossovers and designed to be
> >used
> >with
> >> > > > > one subwoofer, like you're planning on doing, so their
> >crossovers
> >> > filter
> >> > > > > out high frequencies and send only the low frequencies to
> >the
> >> > subwoofer.
> >> > > > > Bridgeable means you can send both channels, mono, to one
> >subwoofer.
> >> > > > > Usually it's done by hooking the speaker to R- and L+ or
> >something
> >> > like
> >> > > > > that - it varies. Some have a "bridged" switch, like my POS
> >Legacy.
> >> > > > > Anyone have any opinions on Legacy, BTW? I bought one brand
> >new
> >for
> >> > $80
> >> > > > > and it worked great while it worked. 300W (150RMS),
> >bridegeable,
> >> > built-in
> >> > > > > crossover, hey, sounded great. It died, but I guess that
> >was
> >because I
> >> > > > > mounted it to my rear deck and my speakers were mounted
> >there too.
> >> > > > > Someone told me this will kill an amp. Yes? No? Sounds
> >quite
> >plausible
> >> > to
> >> > > > > me - vibration and all.
> >> > > > > HTH! (I don't know that much about audio either, really)
> >> > > > > -Josiah
> >> > > > > '84 GTI
> >> > > > > '87 QSW
> >> > > > > '86 Golf
> >> > > > > http://bork.hampshire.edu
> >> > > > > self-employed VW mech
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > > On Wed, 9 Jun 1999 10:29:28 EDT CAPTIANBR@aol.com writes:
> >> > > > > >I have just inherited a JBL 12" subwoofer and box. But I
> >don't no
> >> > what
> >> > > > > >type
> >> > > > > >of amp to get for it or how to hook it up in the rocco. I
> >currently
> >> > > > > >have six
> >> > > > > >speakers off of a Clarion CD player. JBL componants in the
> >front
> >and
> >> > > > > >pioneer
> >> > > > > >5 1/4 in the rear. But I also have two rca outputs that
> >are not
> >> > being
> >> > > > > >used,
> >> > > > > >Shoud I use these for the subwoofer? What is a crossover
> >and do
> >I
> >> > > > > >need it?
> >> > > > > >As you can tell I don't have much experience with audio
> >besides
> >> > > > > >changing
> >> > > > > >speakers. I have two rca's but only one subwoofer how will
> >this
> >work.
> >> > > > > >Thanks
> >> > > > > >in advance for any help.
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >Brian 86 16v
> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > > >--
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> >> > > > > >majordomo@scirocco.org.
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> >> > > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >> > > > >
> >___________________________________________________________________
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