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Rally Scirocco Preparation (long)
WaspHwy@aol.com wrote:
> I am going with full rally spec, but I dont know what that is.
If you don't know what it is, then what makes you think that you want it?
Really, I'm not getting stinky with you but the question is logical, right?
Perhaps you just think rally cars are cool so you want one, eh? Thats a fine
enough reason if you're a man of passion, I guess. I'd look into this project
farther if I was you, though.
> I dont really have tons of money, but this is a project car and I can take my
> time on it.
You don't have tons of money? Well, that will limit you. I don't have a ton of
dough at my disposal either. So, my car has progressed along a conservative
evolutionary path. It definitely gets the job done but has a long way to go.
I'll outline a development scenario for you in a minute...
> Where can I get specs for a Roll cage?
Specs? The only time that you're going to find actual documented "specs" is if
you can find factory homologation papers. The Scirocco was never homologated for
rallying, though. So, you have two choices. You either make a custom weld-in
cage or you just buy one from Autopower for example. If you take the first
route, you'd better know *exactly* what you're doing or find someone who does.
Look in the phone book for anyone that does drag racing chassis preparation.
They'll do the job for you but expect to pay upwards of $1500 for a
well-engineered cage. If you buy a cage (not as strong or rigid but not bad at
all) you'll pay around $750 or so. I've got an Autopower weld-in cage in my
street Scirocco Mk1 and a custom jobbie in the rallycar.
Do NOT take *ANY* short cuts on the cage; you're life depends on it! Rallying
will make you get religion within five minutes of your first special stage.
"Dear God, protect my poor VW hotrodding ass. Oh shhhhii...!"
> and what springs (as cheap as possible) would be stiff enough for rally abuse,
> yet not lower the car.
Go visit the Moog web page and find yourself a Carquest auto parts store in your
area. Moog manufactures a set of "cargo coils" for the A1 cars. They fit the
stock struts/shocks, are a stiffer rate, and will raise the car a little bit.
They're also cheap -your bottom line...
Here, I'll make it easy on you. Click here:
http://www.38north.com/MoogAuto/MOOG/CargoCoilSpr.html
> I am going to be using Bilstein HD's. Any other advice is greatly appreciated
Those will work fine and last a long time -especially if you keep your car
light.
Okay, here's my five-minute Scirocco rally prep primer.
0. Learn how to drive. Start with autocrossing or karting. You'll blow the doors
off rallyists that think they are experts in their field. Shawn Meze and Iain
Mannix should give it a whirl -just not in the North East Division. I want to
win some of the time!
1. Decide whether you want to rally. Expect that you'll wreck your car
eventually. Unless you *have* to rally a Scirocco consider preparing a Golf.
They have more suspension travel and aren't as "nervous" at speed.
2. Depending on the answer to the first directive, decide what class you're
going to compete in. Since Group 2 (2wd/less than 2.4l 8v or 2.0l 16v, no
turbos) is the only class that you're going to have a chance in, you've got an
easy choice ahead of you.
Chassis
3.Strip the car completely. Get rid of the entire interior except for dash and
seats.
4. Install roll cage
5. Seam weld front a-arms (leave rubber bushings. poly will crack within 10
rally miles)
6. Re-route brake and fuel lines inside the car.
7. Fabricate a front skid plate to keep your oil pan from splitting on a big fat
rock!
8. Plate the bottom of the chassis with plastic sheeting to prevent thinning of
the metal floor.
9. Install mud flaps.
10. mount battery behind passenger's seat
Suspension/brakes/tires
11. Bolt in the Bilsteins/Moog cargo springs (use heavy duty upper strut mounts)
12. Upgrade front brakes/booster/master cylinder to Scirocco 16v. Stock pads
are best for snow and pitiful on gravel and dirt.
13. mount some Silverstone rally tires on your 14x6 GTi rims. Click here:
http://www.silverstone.com.my/ The U.S. contact is Ken Burt: 860.927.4756
Rally navigation computer
14. The least expensive quality unit that is easy to use is the Brantz
International 2 Pro. I've got one. Click here:
http://www.donbarrow.demon.co.uk/br2p.html You can call Ken Burt for this piece,
too.
Intercom
15. I'll bet you didn't know that you needed one of these, right? Well, it gets
LOUD!!! on a rally stage. You can't hear a damned thing through the helmet
either. Click here: http://catalog.com/susq/ttrip/headset.htm Talk to Ken Beard.
(What's with the Ken B's...?)
Flamethrowers
16. A.K.A. rally lamps. You'll need three Hella 4000s and some H4/H1 headlights.
Get the 100/60 hi/low range. Click here: http://catalog.com/susq/hella.htm
Drive train
Tune your motor after you've done everything else. The key to rallying is
staying on the road and staying in the rally. But the engine's the fun part
right? For a Scirocco, I'd recommend a 2.0l 8v or 16v motor. They are *a lot*
more driveable than a 1.8l or less. Go for midrange torque -not peak horsepower.
I've got a G-cam in a solid lifter head on my Audi 2.0l motor. A 16v won't
necessarily give you much more hp; plus they're heavier and more expensive.
However, their powerband is much wider. That's the best thing about'm.
As for the trans, the best cheap one that you can go with will come out of an
'83 Rabbit GTi. The final drive and fifth gear are lower. (3.91:1 and .91,
respectively). Now I want a 4.25, though. TORQUE, baby! TORQUE!!! Yaahh!!!!
Okay, now that took me more like 35 minutes... :^)
P.S. Click here for some more really practical tuning info. Non-rally contenders
may also find this stuff interesting: http://catalog.com/susq/other/useful.htm
...and then go here for "Getting Started in SCCA ProRally:
http://catalog.com/susq/other/starting.htm
Alright, I have to call the girlfriend now. Peace out...
--
Scott F. Williams
NJ Scirocco nut
SCCA ProRally driver
Hotrod Rabbit GTi
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