Re: Few questions concerning my upcoming motor swap

[Brett P VanSprewenburg <brettv@rocketmail.com>]

---Gary Huff <ghuff@htech.com> wrote:
>
> People, 	
> 	I have a few questions about my motor swap thats coming up. 
> 	1. What oil should I use to break it in? and what weight?

A good lightweight oil is what I've heard recommended.  I used Castrol
GTX 10w/30.  Ran it in my driveway for about 20 minutes, NO IDLING!

Took it out on the highway after that, running through the rpms in fourth.
2-3k 10 times, 3-4k 10 times, 4-5k 10 times.  Accelerate to the top rpm,
then let off the gas, letting the engine slow you down.  This reverse
loads the pistons in the bores, in an attempt to well seat all sides of 
the rings.  I changed this oil again at 500-600 miles to the same weight
GTX 10w/30.  Then I changed it again at 3,500 to Mobil 1 full symthetic
10w/30.  Seems to be working great, hard shift oil blowby is gone so I'd
say the rings are fully seated.

> 	2. After getting the head on the motor and such is there
> anything special to do?

Make sure everything is lined up. Head to block and timing wise.

> 	3. Im mating a 2.0l block up to a RD code head, would I use the
> A3 2.0l headgasket, or the RD?

I think I'd go with the 2L headgasket.  It's the bore size that matters
most.  All the other holes had better line up...you've researched that part
of it, right?

> 	4. Last but not least how much does a tranny rebuild cost? Its
> shot, second gear grinds and only engages when it feels like it.

I'd say it'll cost between $400 and $1000.  I know people that have paid
both ends of the spectrum, starting from one such as yours (already having
problems) I'd be leaning towards the higher end of the scale.  Probably
cheaper just to have you put in another used one while saving up for a
rebuild.

> 	Any help is apprecciated, 
> 				Gary Huff


==Brett

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