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<x-charset iso-8859-1>How is it that you are SURE that stock studs are just as "effective" as ARP
head studs? What articles have you read and what tests have you done to
reach this conclusion?
Factory head bolts work just fine under normal duty but ARP head studs are
stronger, reusable, and offer higher clamping power due to finer threads (at
the top). They may cost you $120 up front but they are well worth it in the
long term if you are pushing your motor to the limit (extreme mods or forced
induction).
Regarding #3 below, I think you mean the control pressure (or "warm up")
regulator. The fuel accumulator is back by the gas tank and is designed to
maintain fuel pressure after the car is turned off (to avoid vapor lock and
hard starting) as well as absorbing some of the initial surge of pressure
when the main pump turns on.
Bradley
NEW RIDE: White '88 Scirocco 16V
DAILY DRIVER: '81 Scirocco S
STOLEN/DESTROYED: '86 Scirocco 16V 2.0 "T"
http://dns.effervescent.com/vw/
>Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 20:40:30 -0800 (PST)
>From: Paul Maione <scirocco_16v@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: 2.0 8v Swap...Questions!
>
>> 1. Are ARP head studs worth the cost?
>
>I'm sure that stcok studs would be just as effective
>as the APR studs. Find out how much the original studs
>are and compare them to these. If they're not that
>much more, why not get the APR just to know that you
>have hard core head studs.
>
>> 2. What exactly do I need to the distributor? I
>> have heard that I need
>> to switch something???
>
>You have to get an Adapter bushing to make the A1
>distributor fit on the ABA block. $35 at TT.
>
>> 3. I have also heard that I need the metal coolant
>> pipe from the head
>> to the heater core. Is this right?
>
>Yeah. On the A1 block, the Fuel Accumulator (Is that
>what it's called?) rests there. On the ABA block,
>usually a rubber hose runs from there to the top of
>the valve cover. It takes fumes out of the crank
>chamber. This thing cost $60 at TT also. I don't where
>else you could get this stuff.
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