Re: please gimme some adivce! :)

[aventari <aventari@cts.com>]

At 11:35 PM 1/12/98 -0700, you wrote:

>Deck the head - take .040" off it or so.  I've heard of people taking up
>to .090" off it, but that seems scary.  I took .030" off mine to get it to
>the minimum legal limit(132.55mm tall), other people have taken more off
>to get to the minimum legal limit.  As far as cam timing goes, people say
>that if you machine the head, your cam timing gets screwy - way I figure,
>if it is within spec, the cam timing should be OK.  I guess the Autotech
>gasket does the same thing, but costs more - $100 vs $30 or so at the
>machine shop.  
>
>Why titanium spring retainers?  I guess I don't see the need for them
>compared to the expense - I don't know how much they cost, but I do know
>how much titanium bike parts cost, and I can only guess.  If you were
>building a really crazy motor, I guess I could see it(maybe), but for what
>you are doing, I'd not think them necessary.  Don't know.  I can see why
>pushrod engines respond well to better rockers, but the spring retainers
>are light enough to begin with, and last a long time - maybe I am missing
>something, but I wonder if they are really necessary.  

With the thin gasket you can always go back, and i just wanted a better
head gasket. I'm sick of pulling mine off, and you cant do better than VW
motorsport.

I got a really good deal on the titanium spring retainers, so i'm just
using them to say i have em! :) It should rev a little faster though

 

>I've not heard of Badger pistons - what type are they?  Lighter than
>stock?  I'm leery of non-factory internal parts for VWs.  If it is a good
>piston, I see no reason why it would not last.  7500rpm is probably
>adequate - AFAIK, the G grind typically peaks at 5800 or 6k, so shift
>points would probably be 6500 or so.  A guess, but the G grind is not
>terribly aggressive, so I'd not think there'd be much need for anything
>over 7k on a regular basis. 

The machine shop said badger just buys from other manufacturers, but i've
never heard of a badly made VW piston. I'll check back to see exactly what
kinda piston it is.



>Are you going to lighten the flywheel?  I'd guess you could take a few
>pounds off while in there and not kill reliability.
>

Naw, i'll leave that stock for now (better for drag racing anyways!)



>Hmmm.  Did you resurface the head after the first one went?  That's
>unusual.  Good luck, let me know how it comes out - thinking about

No i didn't resurface the block the first time because i'm putting the new
engine in it soon. And i think the second time was a combination of over
heating and driving at 120 mph when i should take it easy on the engine. I
didn't deck it this time either.

>building a new motor myself.  Mine will be basically stock(.040" overbore,
>new bearings, rings, deck block, that's about it), but I'm gathering
>information so I can get it right.  I've seen too many rebuilt engines
>blow up after a year or two - three I can think of - and I'll be damned if
>I do all that work to find out I missed something small but crucial.
>That'd bother me.  The stock bottom ends seem to last a LONG time, and if
>I rebuild mine, it'd better do the same.  

Sounds good, probably get new valves and _definately_ get new teflon valve
stem seals. Stock ones SUCK. 
Stock bottom ends are bullent proof. I can move most of my pistons in the
bore with my finger (180,000+ miles, and 2 cracked valves), but can still
take the 1.7 to 6,000 rpm. runs strong.

Kevin Fry

--
To subscribe or unsubscribe, send email to scirocco-L-request@privateI.com,
with your request (subscribe, unsubscribe) in the BODY of the message.