Re: $5.99 paint job! (well not exactly...)

["Chris Chemidlin" <spredhaus@hotmail.com>]

>I mentioned a few times how I was going to paint my 
mechanically-brilliant
>/ cosmetically-nasty 84 scirocco -- the paint was like, a nasty dull
>orange, all faded and was definately in need of a paint job. Before I
>commited to the high cost, a cousin of mine recommended I try out this
>Mother's California Gold prewax. 
--------8<--------SNIP!-------------8<-----------SNIP!----------8<--
>WARNING: This is not easy work! I did about half of my hood, in no less
>than three hours! As soon as you try to cheat and work on large areas, 
it
>doesn't do as good a job... so I figure i'll have the car done by next 
week
>if I work every evening... ugh... maybe a paint job doesn't seem so bad
>after all ;-)
>
>
>Alex Tomic - Monkey #37 -   "Peace Sells...But Who's Buying?"


I used to work in a detail shop, and I saved a bunch of old cars by 
buffing them out. What you should do is pick up an electric buffer for 
the car. Its like $75 for a cheap one or maybe you could borrow one. I 
would suggest using 2 foam pads, rather than wool ones, because you have 
no experience- the wool can heat up and 'burn' the paint (ever see a 
black car with weird strioes/squiggles in the reflection?).
I have an automotive detail supply shop not too far from my house. You 
might also- go speak to anybody in a new car dealership prep shop. they 
have to get their chemicals somewhere!
The Pro supplies are the best to use. they have no fancy packaging and 
no advertising $$. You get a real good product for minimal $$. 3M makes 
some fine waxes/glazes/compounds. I use the local brand- CAS- for 
everything I need- a BIG bottle is $12 for the stuff I use on the 
showcar, and I switched from Zymol- the cheaper stuff just had better 
results!
When I buy one of my $100-$500 gem A-1 VWs, I always strip all the black 
plastic (bumpers, flares, grille, wiper arms, rear fill plate... any 
removable trim) off the car. I wash them in Simple Green, then hit them 
with black Vinyl Paint. While its drying, wash and completely dry the 
car. Now is a good time to touch up any scratches, the buffing will 
blend them in.  Put a little compound on the pad (you'll figure out how 
much is too much- it'll splatter everywhere if you use too much), then 
put it onto the surface and start the motor. Sweep the pad flat across 
the surface- some people do it on an angle, but that can easily cause a 
burn. Work in 1-2ft squares, that works best for me. Remember that this 
step will not be pretty- you are removing the dead paint and 'waking up' 
the color. After I do a few 'squares', I take a clean towel and wipe it 
down. When the whole car is finished,change pads then do it over, this 
time using a wax (you should mark yer pads for 'compound' and 'wax'. You 
dont want compound getting into yer wax- this aint no Reeces Peanut 
Butter Cup!). Be careful not to hit the window seals or the 
non-removable black trim- its a bitch to get out. 
Install graphics (stripes...) now if you need them while the trim is 
off, then put the Trim on.  YYYYaAAAAYYYY! a nice shiny car!

Thats the way I'd do it. If you rub it out by hand, it could get 
'spotty' and your arm will fall off. Asked One-Armed Tony, he'll tell 
ya...

I've never been there, buI hear that McGuires (sp?) has a nice web page 
on detailing...


                       CHRIS CHEMIDLIN

          NEW MUSIC!         http://www.spredhaus.com

          58 Type1 Ragtop, 84 Jetta GLi, 87 Foxwagen


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