skerocdriver@juno.com (SHAWN C MEZE): Re: Burning oil part 2

[mark.peele@juno.com (Mark A. Peele)]

Techtonics does'nt sell short blocks anymore. 

EIP Tuning sells new Short Blocks 1.8 and 2.0. I just put a new 1.8 10:01
shortblock in my 87 Golf GT - paid $995 for it. I think the 2.0 is about
$1700. You can get 9:0 or 10:0 comp ratios ...

You could use a 2.0 from a wrecked A3 golf/jetta as well.

I think I'm gonna go with a two liter for my '82 . . . 


 . . . Mark
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--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: skerocdriver@juno.com (SHAWN C MEZE)
To: etrik@pure-research.net
Cc: scirocco-l@privatei.com
Subject: Re: Burning oil part 2
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:18:33 EDT
Message-ID: <19970918.150720.4711.4.Skerocdriver@juno.com>
References: <3422F210.794B@pure-research.net>

On Fri, 19 Sep 1997 17:43:44 -0400 Etrik Patricella
<etrik@pure-research.net> writes:
>Well, to get a better idea of what I am dealing with, I went
>out an pulled the plugs.  Now to my surprise they were clean
>as year old plugs should be :), so this leads me to believe
>that the smoking has just started.  The odo. reads 106k
>but it was broken for awhile, so I am guessing 140 to 150k 
>(not too bad actually).  Another thing is when I first
>start it there is no smoke at all, then after it warms up
>the smoke starts.  Would this point to the valve seal?.


Ah-hah!!! If it only smokes when its warm then that would be oil leaking
in through the intake valve seals. Unless of course the oil is being
blown into the intake system. Have you checked that??


>Maybe I am going about this the wrong way, maybe its a
>sign to move to bigger and better things (2.0). So 
>a few questions about that, how much would a 2.0 16v
>short block run?  although if it is a valve seal 
>maybe I should look into a Techtonics head for the 1.8?
>but what would be the sense of not putting new rings in
>while I have the head off?  I am confused, either way
>I think it would end up being a $1000 thing.  
>
>Etrik


It could be. You could replace the seals with the head on the car. Not
easy but not undoable. You simply first find the valve That's leaking and
or replace ALL the intake valve seals. Then you remove the intake cam and
one by one, remove the valve springs and the old valve seal. Then
reinstall. Do this until all the seals are replaced. Its definitely time
consuming and you also gotta be careful not to drop the valve into the
cylinder. (Piston at TDC with some compressed air in the cylinder should
hold the valves closed. Works for me anyways.)

Let me pull a rabbit out of your butt and look at some prices as listed
in a few "tuners" catalogs. Well, the rabbit I could pull. (Its  -->in<--
 there dude!) 
Velocity- Sorry, cant find my catalog...
TT- 16V with IT head specs $500.  Same head dyno bench & flow tested.
$700
Autotech- "Zylinderkopf   $1095


Short blocks
TT- from $1995 up to (gulp) $3000
Autotech- N/A

Heh! U used to want a 16V..... not no more!
I had more catalogs but I cant find them. I still haven't gotten my ND
catalog yet either. Hmph!



              Shawn Meze
86' Jetta GLi           82' Scirocco GTi
The Fastest, Quickest, Cleanest and
best looking Scirocco in all of San Diego!
http://www2.netcom.com/~trnsfrma/vws.html
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