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RE: Rear brake woes continue...
> My biggest concern now is the fact that the e-brake is seized. I have
> checked the cable, and they move freely in their sleeves, but after
> spraying 1/4 can of liquid wrench on the levers on the calipers, (if
> you
> know what I mean) letting it soak in overnight, still nothing, not
> budging.
> I took the wheels off last night, and tapped the frozen lever with a
> hammer
> and a punch, but no budging.
i had the same thing happen to my '88 16v. i ran it w/o the ebrake
operational; but given the last comments i heard about self-adjusting
rears, that probably wasn't a great idea, and may explain why my braking
power has deteriorated over the last 10k miles, even with new front
rotors & pads.
> I went into the dealer today, and ordered a Bentley (I'm no idiot, and
> I
> can't put up with this retarded Haynes manual any more...) and talked
> the
> brake problem over with the guy behind the counter. He says that he's
> seen
> it before when the caliper has seized, and is not repairable. Just for
>
> laughs, I asked him the price for new calipers. Heh, $480 CDN each!
> ($350USD) Uhm, no thanks... Is this so, have any of you encountered
> this
> problem on your 16vs? The calipers themselves haven't seized, just the
>
> e-brake part that seems to be spring-loaded.
talk to Mark at Adirondack. www.germanautoparts.com. i bought rebuilt
rear calipers (with working e-brake "arms") at a very reasonable price,
i think about 1/3 what the dealer quoted you. i think replacement is
your only solution. i haven't heard of anyone who was able to fix the
ebrake arm without replacing the entire caliper.
-john
jgies@skandia.com
'88 16v Alpine White coming out of the body shop friday :-)
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