Re: 2.0L big bore and specs needed.

[Hulda Jowett <hjowett@mcla.mass.edu>]

Here's some of the deal. I spoke with Alistair Oag this morning. He 
pretty much builds almost every professionally raced V-dub engine in the 
states and Canada. I had him put together the 3.0l bottom end for my 
Corrado.

Headwork, the 1.8 is a great flowing head, it does respond well to some 
porting. Most of the gains, just as on any production head, are produced 
by doing some work around the bowls of the port (seat area). It aint 
rocket science to match the seat to the port. production heads 
almost alway have this ridge, and it's easy to grind away w/o mismatching 
the flow rates of the different ports. The bridge between the ports can be 
knife edged for a small gain. polishing? Do not bother, no gain, you 
won't see it when all is together. If you want to shell out $1000 for 
some stage 3 head that produces a few more hp up high, go for it ;). I'll 
invest my grand in a Quaife (which I also have a cheap source for).

Compression, leave it, not much gain, shave off .001 if ya want, this 
will retard the timeing a smidge for a bit more high end.

Big cranks don't rev, that's why I used the stock 90.3mm on my VR6. I 
want a good all around engine. Use the stock 2.0l crank, with some larger 
pistons, say 83mm ish. JE will make you custom pistons for about $100 - 
$150 each. If you can find a good 83mm cast piston use it. The JE are 
decent though, they run tight clearances for low oil comsumption and 
a longer lasting engine.

Remember, set a budget for you engine. There are MANY frivolous add ons 
that won't gain you shit on a street engine. More later, questions welcome.

later,

brian
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