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Re: Rear Wheel Bearing



At 03:01 PM 5/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I am gonna have to replace a rear wheel bearing on my 87 16v Scirocco
>soon, and need some info on how its done.  I have a chilton manual but
>I don't trust it.  As you all know its disc brakes.  I also might
>replace the front motor mount, any tips?
>
>Thanks
>Etrik


At first I thought, "Heres a guy that just didnt do his homework!" Then 
I looked in my Chilton manual and learned there is nothing on how to 
replace the wheel bearings. Hmm. So I looked in my Haynes manual. Well, 
at least it had repacking information but still, no replacement info. I 
dont have a Bently manual for my Scirocco (Yah-yah, I know!) but did 
look in a Jetta Bently to see if it even had any info. Bummer, still no 
info there either. Theres a nice blow up diagram of the rear disc brakes 
and bearings but no text. So, I offer my own experiences. (FWIW)

To replace the rear disc bearings is much like replacing the bearings. 
Not much is different other than removing the caliper to remove the 
rotor. Once the rotor is out, clean out all of the old grease from 
inside the rotor. This will allow you to see the 3 notched that are on 
the inside of each of the bearing races. Then you simply take a nice 
punch and a hammer and tap-tap, move to the next one, tap-tap, move to 
the next one, tap-tap, move to the next one, tap-tap. You get the 
picture, roght?
There is no star pattern to make while tapping, just be sure to tap and 
move. (since there are only 3 notches...) Work it a little while and the 
race comes out. One race will require you use a piece of scrap wood or 
something to allow it to be removed. You will know when you get to it. 
Its the one that you keep tapping on and it just doesnt move. Turn it 
over al the edge of the race is flush. Thats the one! The other race will 
come out easily. 

Instalation is a little different. Its not difficult. I like to use an 
old socket the same size as the new race so it doesnt risk slipping (Like 
a punch could) and scratch the race surface. It also makes it easier to 
pound in the new races. A punch will work but it will require a little 
care and time to get the race fully seated. 

*NOTE* Be sure the races are fully seated before installing the bearings. 
Otherwise they will seat themselves and cause you to have loose wheel 
bearings. (Kind of defeats the purpose.) 

Dont forget the new seal on theback side of the rotor and follow up with 
a full bearing pack job. Be liberal with the grease in the hub. 

Its really not hard to do, I can do a complete repack/replacement job in 
about 30 minutes, both sides. I think it took me longer to type this out!

HTH!! <-----------Josh got it!! 



Shawn
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