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Re: oil pressure and adjustable konis!




>hmm, I must've messed something up then.  BTW: what's the firmest you ut
>it at?
>The Koni pamphlet says to stay under 1 full turn, does it even make a
>difference after
>that?

Mine have two full turns of adjustment - fully clockwise is soft, then two
counterclockwise turns to full firm, where there is a stop - they won't
turn any farther.

>
>> >I have the car sitting pretty low now (I can barely fit my fingers onto
>> >the tops of the
>> >tires!) and it works great but I think I need some more time with it and
>> >then to set it a
>> >bit higher.

Look at your control arms - they should be parallel to the ground to
preserve roll center.

 With such stiff springs, do you think I should just try a
>> >rear sway bar?
>>
>> Well, first off, what spring rates did you choose?  I'd say yes to a
>> swaybar (no to hollow, seen a couple crack), almost regardless of rate.
>> Some schools of thought do try to eliminate swaybars through springs, but
>> that's a REALLY stiff spring.  What rates are you using?
>
>300 ft, 250 rear.  Pretty stiff.  I think the front hardly leans at all,
>but I don't have
>sticky enough tires to really test it.  It just starts drifting when I
>think the car would
>lean with stickier tires (I have Dunlop SP4000 195/50s)

Well, hmm.  Mine does not do that on street tires - it drives like it does
on race tires.  Do you have the shocks set on full firm in the front?
That'll make it push.  Put the rear shocks at full stiff, fronts at full
soft, see what that does.  Your springs are fairly stiff, but still well
within the "needs swaybar" category.


>I don't know, I really like the hollow bars and seeing them on a couple of
>cars and
>experiencing the difference in Jay's ride after putting all that Autotech
>stuff on, I am
>convinced.

I'm convinced that Autotech's swaybars suck.  I mean, their solid ones have
to be ok (although their brackets seem to break), but the hollow bars don't
seem to have a long life.

 They sure are lighter!

Yeah, the people at Autotech told a friend that he'd "save 50 pounds" over
the solid bars.  He got the solid bars, weighed them, grin, they weighed
something like 38 pounds.  Damn, negative weight.  H&C Ballast.  Cool.
Hollow bars are light, and not inherently bad, but Autotech's have somehow
gained a reputation for cracking.  A solid bar does not feel any different
on the car.  Up to you!

 I think the springs are a bit mroe than the
>Neuspeed "race" springs, am I correct?  Aren't they 260 something lbs front?
>thanks

I've called APS several times to find out the rate - they seem to have
decided on 280-300 pounds, progressive.  I don't see them as progressive,
shrug.  I've got answers from "more than 250" to "I don't know, really
stiff."  When I get a number out of them, it is typically 280.  My
calculations say 280-290ish.  Depends how many coils you count - there are
so many dead coils, it is hard to tell where the spring starts.  Put some
swaybars on the car, soften the front shocks, have fun!


Mannix






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