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Re: Suspension questions (Thanks)
At 10:24 AM 4/23/97 -0600, you wrote:
>Alignments are not hard, but tedious. Somewhere, maybe here, there was a
>recent discussion re: home alignments. IMHO, $40 is cheap, unless you
>have NO money, tons of time, and boatloads of patience. Try a 1.5-2d
>negative and some toe out - 1/16" total? Something like that. The hard
>part of aligning at home is not so much the actual adjustments, but the
>measuring/preparation. I suck at it, maybe that's why I don't like it. I
>can get camber fairly equal side to side, but measuring toe is a hassle,
>and I am not good at it yet.
Its better to have your body in the driver seat while the alignment is going
on. Try to get somebody that is the same weight as you to sit in the car while
your doing the alignment. It makes quite a bit of difference in the setup when
your actually driving the car. Having a "perfect" alignment parked doesnt do
any bit of good.
>Front wheel alignments are typically fairly
>cheap, you might be able to find coupons. Problem is finding a place that
>will adjust the car beyond manufacturer's specifications - they'll tell
>you it is dangerous, that there is no warranty, it might not stay adjusted
>- all a bunch of crap. If it does not stay adjusted, it is because they
>are idiots. Tell them that. I once took my car to a Badyear for a
>quickie alignment - my normal shop was too busy/alignment guy was sick,
>man, what a hassle. Told them 2.5neg/1/8" toe out, they bugged. "No,
>bad, dangerous, tirewear, etc." Finally, they did it, it sucked, the
>camber was not the same side to side, es muy horrible. Oh well, we're
>lucky to have the Tire Source here in Boulder for alignements - whatever
>you want, they'll let you sit in the car if you want, and friendly. Cool.
>I got mine aligned yesterday and a new set of R1s. Yeah. I am poor.
>That's OK.
Yup, its hard to get an alignment done by most shops. I dunno why they have
such a hard time with following directions. A few shops I walked into flipped
out whan I told them what I wanted done. I've found a trailer place here that
will do mine for me, I just gotta get it done, some day....
>> What's this about stock upside down bars again?
>
>Take your 25mm bar off, lay the stock bar on upside down, on top of the
>axle beam, drill two holes for the brackets on the axle beam, mount stock
>bar upside down on top, then reinstall the 25mm rear bar. Works great.
Hmm, I hadnt thought about that. Thanks for the insight. IS this what you've
got on your GTi?? (I never got a chance to climb under your GTi when I was
there...)
>> Because the Eurosport bar is so inexpensive, and no-one mentioned that
it'll
>> HURT, I'll add that to my setup as soon as I can. Again, I'll let you know
>> if things start to work better.
>
>The Eurosport bar is good, but IMHO, the addition of the stock bar is
>going to make a bigger difference. If you are prioritizing, do the
>swaybar first.
Cheap too if you already have the stock swaybar. Im thinking I need to fine me
one myself. :)
>Like Shawn said, I have the 40% kit - I got mine before the StageII/80%
>kit was available, and the 40% is good. A competitor locally has a Quaife
>in their car, and while it helps, I still can beat them. I was really
>worried when they first put it in, but their times did not drop noticeably
>after they got it. FWIW.
Give him time, once Mr. Quaife figures out how to drive with the new diff,
watch out! It does make a big difference to the right driver.
>Honestly, I'd spend my money on a SoloII school, learn to use what you've
>got to its fullest first. They are typically $20-40 dollars, and if you
>spent $100 in schools/events for practice, you WOULD be faster than if you
>---------------------------------SNIP-----------------------------------------
-
>cheapest and most effective part of the car to modify, bar none.
I like the way you think. Damn fine advice. Cant add much to that.
Shawn
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