Re: Jackin' it +

[trnsfrma@ix.netcom.com (Shawn C. Meze)]

At 05:51 PM 4/11/97 -0700, you wrote:
>As I pull into my driveway, the pipe between the cat and the resonator (?)
>decides to break off.  The person I bought it from had put in a Eurosport
>exhaust system.  Looks like it broke at a weld.  Can this be welded back
>together, or can I just replace the piece of straight pipe?


If the weld broke, clean up the ends and have it rewelded, unless you got a 
welder of your own. Either way, unless its rusted, it can be rewelded. 


>I've put them under the part where the control arm pivots.  Is that OK?
>What about under the center engine mount?  And for the rear, can the
>trailing arm be used for a jacking point?  Thanx all, b---------


I use a big ol' 2 1/2 ton floor jack on my car. Theres a few options you can use 
for lifting the car that way. If your using the stock jack, use the stock 
locations. Theres reasons why the manufacturer sez to use it. (I dunno why tho!) 

To use the floor jack method, you can use the stock locations, or in the rear, 
the rear beam is fine. As often as I put my car up in the air, its done no 
damage. 
In the front you can use the tranny housing where it bolts to the engine. 
(really? yes!) 

Mainly what I use is the bushing for the front swaybar. (Where the front lower 
control arm connects to the swaybar.) If you dont have a front swaybar, then use 
the rear mount for the front lower control arm. 
My suspension is tight enough that lifting on this point is sufficient enough to 
remove both left or right side wheels and instaling my racing wheels. Works for 
me. 

Now, jack Stands:
I will lift the car up by the stock locations so I can place a stand at the 
outmost ends of the rear axle beam and at the aforementioned front swaybar/lower 
control arm locations. This provides a secure positioning point while allows 
maximum under the car roll-around with my creeper.
HTH




Shawn  
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